Hungarian PeperonataAccording to restaurateur and doyen of Hungarian cuisine, George Lang, in The Cuisine of Hungary, paprika (a.k.a. bell peppers or capsicums, as we know the fruit of the Capsicum annuum) were unknown in Europe until the ambitious Genoese explorer Christopher Columbus made his voyage across the Atlantic to the New World. The ornamental plant remained a botanical curiosity, however, until the latter part of the sixteenth century. When cultivated, its fruit was widely embraced as a seasoning agent - particularly by the Hungarians, whose cuisine is today synonymous with paprika, the pungent spice ground from dried capsicum.
Hardly surprising then that this Hungarian-Australian girl ate many a capsicum and plenty of paprika throughout her childhood (and I still do). My mother used sweet capsicums and paprika in numerous dishes, including my favourite comforts foods: Chicken Paprika (Paprikás Csirke) and Stuffed Peppers (Töltött Paprika). At snack time, Mum would make slices of crunchy red or green capsicum topped with Swiss cheese (her healthy version of cheese and crackers). Another favourite was a confiture or stew of capsicums, tomatoes and onions known as Lecsó (pronounced 'LATCH-oh'). I liken this dish to the Sicilian Peperonata, minus the Balsamic vinegar and herbs. In Hungary, lecsó is cooked with lashings of lard and is often prepared and then frozen or bottled as a Summer preserve, so that it can be enjoyed throughout Winter. It is lovely served hot or cold with chunks of crusty bread (as an appetiser or side-dish) or as a meatless main meal. It's rustic, rich in colour and flavour, and packed with goodness. I have come to know it as my Hungarian peperonata ... which is a little cheeky of me, but I think that name sounds sexier than lecsó. Enjoy! MY HUNGARIAN PEPERONATA 2-3 tablespoons oil 1 large onion, sliced 1-2 cloves garlic, chopped 3 sweet red capsicums, seeds and core removed, flesh cut into strips 2 green capsicums, seeds and core removed, flesh cut into strips 1 yellow or orange capsicum, seeds and core removed, flesh cut into strips 2 ripe Roma tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon noble sweet Hungarian paprika 1/4-1/2 teaspoon dried chilli flakes (optional) salt, to taste crusty bread to serve Heat the oil in a heavy-based frypan or skillet. Saute the onion gently. Sprinkle with salt to bring out the sweetness in the onions and sweat them off until translucent. Add the capsicum strips and cook well, stirring constantly until just tender. Add tomatoes, garlic, paprika, chilli flakes and extra salt (if you wish) to taste. Cover and cook over low heat for a further 10-15 minutes. You can allow the capsicums to stew until soft or cook for less time if you'd like a little crunch in the texture. Sprinkle with a tablespoon or two of water, if need be, to prevent the confiture from catching too much, but do allow it to caramelise slightly as this will result in a wonderful sweet and nutty sauce. Serves 4.
12 Comments
2/11/2011 09:52:29 am
oooh how very delish! Those capsicums look perfect!
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Lizzy (Good Things)
2/11/2011 10:28:50 pm
Celia, thanks for popping in to say hello. Yes, Caponata, I know it. With my peperonata, lecso, you do cook the caps down until they're soft and even slightly caramelised. But I thought some cooks might like crunch. Love your blog BTW!
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Lizzy (Good Things)
2/11/2011 10:30:03 pm
Hiya Lisa, thanks for your kind words. Do try this peperonata sometime, it's vitamin packed, so good for your baby BBB!
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3/11/2011 10:17:38 pm
That looks very luscious Lizzy! :D Hungarian food is so delicious-I love Langos and paprika chicken!
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Lizzy (Good Things)
3/11/2011 10:31:55 pm
Thanks Lorraine! Langos, now you're talking. Love that. Such a treat, but oh so fattening. LOL. When you come to Canberra one time in winter I will make chicken paprika for you.
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4/11/2011 12:53:57 am
Your photos of the capsicums in all their different colours are gorgeous.
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Lizzy (Good Things)
4/11/2011 10:34:32 am
Hi there, thanks so much! A carnival of colours, aren't they.
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26/2/2012 03:08:38 pm
My mum used to pack Capsicums into my lunchbox at school instead of oranges. I was tell anyone who made fun of me that "A capsicum has 10 time the Vitamin C of an Orange". Yes mum - LOL. I did eat A LOT of paprika and capsicums growing up, and like you I still do.
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Lizzy
26/2/2012 06:03:28 pm
LOL, you too, Mel!? I used to get capsicum, cheese and speck! Delicious! Oh, and woggy continental bread, before it was fashionable!
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28/2/2012 08:36:32 am
This is similar to a dish mum used to make, and possibly still does. Its called satarash and has added rice. Paprikás is another wholesome soup I'm all too familiar with!
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My parents also loved to cook lecso which I never appreciated as a child. I was never fond of capsicum. However, my father who used to do most of the cooking (as he got home from work first), has long gone and I've since developed an appreciation for it. My mother (now 83yo and who lives with us) continues to cook this dish on a weekend. She makes it with rice and my children love coming home and eating this 'comfort food' with a chunky slice of bread. They even fight over it.
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Cooking and writing have been a lifelong passion. Join me as I share with you my favourite recipes; postcards and morsels from my travels; conversations with cookery writers and chefs; and news on food, cookbooks and cooking. - Liz Posmyk
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