As far as dates go, it might very well be the first day of Spring in Australia, but this morning's cracker frost and minus 6.9 degrees C temperature assures me that, despite the season, it is not at all inappropriate to share with you one of my most favourite recipes, the Hungarian classic Paprikás Csirke Nokedlivel, (Chicken Paprika with Soft Noodles).
Paprikás Csirke is a dish that my mother taught me to cook when I was just a child. I've eaten and cooked it, with gusto, all my life. There is an art to making Paprikás and some interesting background to it as well.
In The Cuisine of Hungary, author Hungarian-born American restaurateur, George Lang, wrote that 'when a Hungarian says paprika, [they] mean only the ground spice (and it's also referred to as red paprika (pirospaprika). [Whereas], Green paprika refers to the fresh vegetable; if it is red ripe [however], it is generally called a tomato paprika (paradicsompaprika). In Hungary, there are two basic categories of paprika... those grown for eating fresh and those destined to be dried, ground into powder and used as a condiment.' Of course, we know the said vegetables as peppers or capsicums, and sometimes as bell peppers or chilli peppers. Confused yet? Food history indicates that paprika was used as a spice in Hungary during the seventeenth century, when the shepherds on the Great Plain used it to flavour their kettle-cooked goulash. According to Lang, Hungarians were 'unquestionably the first to use powdered paprika in pure form, unmixed with anything else... and somewhere along the line the Hungarians hit on the holy trinity of lard, onion and pure ground paprika. This simple combination became the base of virtually unlimited taste combinations'. Shepherds, fishermen and peasants enjoyed rustic foods based on that holy trinity, goulash and chicken paprika for example, but eventually the nobility discovered these dishes too. In the 1860s, Chicken Paprika was apparently a favourite of Elizabeth or Sisi (consort to Franz Josef I, Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary). At the same time, Georges Escoffier brought paprika from Szeged in Hungary and served it in Monte Carlo in 1869 in his Poulet au Paprika. In my treasured 1955 edition of Az Inyesmester Nagy Szakacskonyve (Muszaki Konyvkiado), the delightfully-worded recipe for Paprikás Csirke loosely translated by my 'kitchen Hungarian' reads: 'Firstly, we need a young but meaty, freshly-slaughtered Magyar chicken, plucked and cut into 8-10 pieces, washed and dried with a cloth. Then we need 12-15 dekagrams of cubed smoked bacon fat, which we melt and when it is boiling hot we throw in and cook until golden a small head of grated red onion. Then we toss onto it a good coffee spoonful of nemes-édes szegedi paprika. Then we place the chicken pieces into the pan and salt them. If the pan juices boil dry, then we add 1-2 spoonfuls of chicken stock. We cover the pan and braise until the meat is tender. ... And then of course, let's not forget to make the simple noodles'. Here are my treasured recipes for Paprikás Csirke and Nokedli, adapted from my mother, Irene's, recipes, which were handed down from her mother (my grandmother), Elizabeth, and, no doubt, her mother before her too. CHICKEN PAPRIKA (Paprikás Csirke) 1kg chicken thigh meat, cubed 2 large brown (or Spanish) onions, chopped 2 tablespoons oil 1-2 tablespoons Noble Sweet Hungarian paprika+ salt, to taste 4 bell peppers (capsicums) red and green, seeds and core removed, flesh cut into strips 2 large ripe tomatoes, cut into quarters a little water, if needed Heat the oil in a heavy based saute pan. Add the onions and cook gently until golden and translucent. Remove the pan from the heat momentarily and sprinkle the paprika over the onions. Stir well, then add the chicken pieces and place the pan back onto the stove. Cook, stirring over a medium to high heat, until the chicken pieces brown (taking care not to burn the paprika). Then add the bell pepper/capsicum slices. It may seem like a lot, but the more capsicum, the richer the sauce will be. Now, season with salt, then lower the heat and pop the lid on. Check to see if the chicken is catching on the pan, if it is, add just a little water. Cook until the bell peppers begin to soften, then add the tomatoes and continue cooking until the chicken is cooked and tender, and the tomatoes and bell peppers have 'cooked down'. Serve over the top of freshly made soft noodles, and add a good dollop of sour cream. Serves 4-6. + Some delicatessens sell good Hungarian brands of Noble Sweet paprika, as does Herbie's. If you don't enjoy the taste of green capsicum, by all means leave it out. The process in pictures... Chicken Paprika
A long time ago, my mother made nokedli by placing the noodle dough into a wet long handled board. With a knife, she cut walnut sized noodles and pushed them into the pot of boiling water. I was always amazed by her quick wrist action and how deft she was at 'plipping' the little noodles into the pot. In the 1970s, my father, in his wisdom, 'invented' a gadget for my mother and me by drilling holes into the base of aluminium frypans. This worked a treat, although it was a little awkward to hold a heavy pan while you scraped the dough back and forth with a plasterer's tool! Once the iron curtain lifted, my parents travelled to Hungary often and brought back numerous nokedli makers. See my current Rolls Royce version below. You could improvise and use a colander or spatzle press with large holes, but I have also offered some suggestions down below, if you prefer to shop for a sliding noodle maker.
SOFT NOODLES (Nokedli) 3 cups plain (AP) flour a pinch of salt 2 free range eggs up to 2 cups water Combine the flour, salt and eggs in a large bowl. Mix well with a wooden spatula. Gradually add the water, stirring to a smooth paste. You don't want a dry dough, the mixture should be viscous without being sloppy, see the pictures below. Meanwhile, heat some water to a rolling boil in a wide saucepan or stockpot. Then you are ready to cook the noodles using a wet board or plate, noodle maker, spatzle press, or whatever gadget you can get your hands on. The noodles are cooked when they rise to the surface. Drain well. NB: I like to rinse quickly with a cup of two of boiling hot water and drain again. Serves 4-6. The process in pictures... Soft NoodlesThe finished dish...My Rolls Royce noodle maker...
** Noodle or nokedli makers are available from Scullery Made in Melbourne and occasionally Cooking Coordinates in Canberra stock them too (speak with 'Jan'). Lisa Goldberg, a.k.a. @MMCCchickie of Monday Morning Cooking Club fame, recommended this wonderful Magyar Marketing site, which stocks the item. But if all else fails, take a tip from Lisa... she uses a colander with large holes, 'it's almost less messy' she tells me.
Dear Readers. Have you ever made similar noodles? Or perhaps spatzle? If you have any questions, let me know. I'd love it if you would try this recipe, despite the weather in your part of the world.
31/8/2012 09:21:41 pm
Paprika chicken is one of my favourite Hungarian dishes-although to be honest, I haven't met a dish I haven't liked! :D
Lizzy
31/8/2012 09:28:03 pm
Thanks Lorraine. LOL, I cannot help but think about your cheesecake incident... did you like that one? ; D 31/8/2012 09:57:45 pm
Looks yummy. What is the difference between your noodles and spatzle --which I've seen Evelyn Everson from Schonegg make? Will have to give you a galloway beef recipe to try
Lizzy
31/8/2012 10:05:35 pm
Hello Christine! Thanks for stopping by. It was good to chat with you today. My noodles are shorter and fatter than spatzle, due to the device used to make them. Sometime spatzle have other ingredients, like milk, oil, nutmeg. Nokedli are just a flour, water, eggs and salt mixture. 31/8/2012 11:19:29 pm
Looks great Lizzie! I think I've only ever had those noodles once before - in Switzerland I think...probably not the same, same same but different!
Lizzy
31/8/2012 11:31:52 pm
Thanks Mel! I understand, most likely Spatzle. 1/9/2012 12:28:01 am
I love paprika. Do hungarians ever use smoked paprika ? Your noodles look light and shiney and delicious ... just like you have made them for years.
Lizzy
1/9/2012 10:22:17 am
Hi Tania. Thank you for your kind words. The noodles do look good, don't they. And mind you, there is no oil used in making or serving them. Re the smoked paprika, I am not sure... I think that is more Spanish. My parents didn't even mention it and nor did my aunts on the occasions I visited Hungary. It is the Noble Sweet that is more often preferred. 1/9/2012 03:19:10 am
I am interested in those noodles - have never had them but have often read of them. I am curious to know if you push them through your noodle instrument (or is the batter so runny they just fall though)?
Lizzy
1/9/2012 10:24:24 am
Hi Johanna... the batter shouldn't be that runny... you do need to push it through a little... again, you don't want the dough to be so dry that you can't work with it either. The noodle maker slides back and forth, pushing the dough into the water. Other forms of noodle makers look like a flat grater and you use a metal spatula, not unlike a small paint scraper, to push the dough through. Have a go... once you have mastered making them, you will love it!
Karen Rush
1/9/2012 07:42:23 am
This is a beautifully written, informative, simply gorgeous contribution to the world of food blogging. It also feeds a deep longing to get to know more about Hungarian cooking. I once cooked alongside and subsequently ate the most sublime Hungarian goulash I have ever eaten with a now deceased wonderful elderly Hungarian man. He showed me how to make spatzle. That night changed my food life somewhat. I love the deep flavors of slow-cooked goulash. I began to explore Hungarian culture - music, poetry and other literature when I could get good translation, art ... and, when I could find them, cook books on Hungarian cooking which, in those days, were not abundantly available. I am going to cook this dish today for my mother and me. I know she will love it. Thank you Liz so much. May I make a plea for you to continue to inform us on the richness of all things Hungarian. Your blog, by the way, is a delight. We are lucky to have you here in Canberra.
Lizzy
1/9/2012 10:30:25 am
Karen, thank you so much for those very kind comments. I was touched to hear about your elderly Hungarian friend. I am delighted to be able to share the things my mother and father taught me about Hungarian culture. There are numerous books available now, George Lang's being the absolute best in terms of history and a plethora of recipes. Culinaria Hungary is also brilliant. I was fortunate to buy a number of older books written in English from a bookseller in Melbourne who had a massive range of culinary titles. That couple had a fondness for Hungary and when they travelled to Budapest, they lodged with my aunt and uncle, giving them a first hand look at life in a Magyar household. Enjoy your meal this evening... and call in to see Jan about a nokedli maker... I believe she has them coming in.
Karen Rush
1/9/2012 12:04:42 pm
My friend was Attila Kiraly, a well known photographer here in Canberra many years ago. He took wonderful portraits and is well known for his time lapse photos of the building of Parliament House. I remember he made the spatzle using a metal colander over gently simmering salted hot water. They were wonderful. He returned to Hungary, re-married and died a few years ago in the land of his birth. He left Hungary after the Russian invasion. He was an absolute character. 1/9/2012 10:53:35 am
I first had this dish made for me by a lovely Hungarian guy who had moved to Australia many years ago to work on the Snowy Hydro scheme. It was as earthy, as lovely and as authentic as he was- also the same red tint after working out in the sun all those years!
Lizzy
1/9/2012 10:57:40 am
Bec, hello! LOL. I must tell you that I have made the nokedli with gluten free flour on more than one occasion, as has my daughter. It's a bit of trial and error. I'm sure with your experience you will be able to make the noodles GF successfully.
Claudia
31/1/2015 10:58:30 am
My daughter is Celiac and I was wondering if you would share your GF Nokeli recipe so I don't I to deal with the trial and error?
Lizzy
1/9/2012 12:21:33 pm
Thanks Karen, I know of Attila Kiraly and quite possible met him too at some stage, though he may have been a little younger than my parents. My father also brought the family to Australia after the Russian uprising... but after my mother died, he moved back to Budapest in his old age. He then travelled extensively, including back to Austria where used to do mountain climbing as a young man (see my photo gallery). He wasn't a tall man, but he was a real gentleman and a champion... always introduced himself to people as 'Andre the Great' as he shook their hands.
I thought of you yesterday at the farmer's market. I walked past a stall that was hawking "Authentic Hungarian Chicken Paprikash"
Lizzy
1/9/2012 01:47:41 pm
You are so sweet, Maureen. Ooooh, would love to see pics of the stall you speak of! I can understand that eating it that early in the am would not gel well. I do hope you will try to make the nokedli... let me know if you have any questions xox PS cannot wait to meet you in SA.
Eha
1/9/2012 04:43:01 pm
What a wonderful post! I do remember my second husband-to-be moving in with his suitcases left behind but about six 'giant' different paprika containers in hand! Since Hungarians are probably the most gregarious hosts in the world and always share food, what a delight! Well I was taught 'plain' as far as 'nockerli' went: have a big pot of water boiling, the soft 'dough' in hand, hold the colander over the water, pour mix in and do and swift to-and-fro act with knife under the slowly 'plopping' stream'!! When they come on top, remove with slotted spoon and enjoy!! Since for the years of our marriage I was always the 'apprentice cook' [Gabor, hope you are not reading!], came be quite adept :) !
Lizzy
1/9/2012 06:46:06 pm
LOL, what a wonderful story, Eha! Hungarians do seem to be the most gregarious hosts, don't they. Your method with the nokedli (nockerl in some other European countries) is perfect. My mother 'plipped' rather than 'plopped'. But you have nailed it. Hello Gabor! ; D
Eha
1/9/2012 07:05:42 pm
Sheesh, Lizzy, don't get that most charming guy going: you may well know him already :) !
Lizzy
4/9/2012 12:05:26 am
Ha ha Eha!
Lizzy
1/9/2012 06:47:35 pm
Oh, how wonderful that you have a Hungarian Club, Amanda! My father was always involved with the Club here, including in building it. But then sadly it burnt down. We still have an active Hungarian community, but they are now the next generation, viz children of the oldies who came after the uprising, and I have also made several friendships with newer, more recent immigrants. Thank you for your kinds words xo 1/9/2012 09:43:15 pm
Oh Lizzy! This is divine!!! I adore your noodle maker. I had a similar version of spaztle at the German club in Sydney today and they were SO good! How wonderful to know how to make them now. Thank you!!!
Lizzy
1/9/2012 11:05:42 pm
Hello Mrs M! Oh how excellent! What was served with the German spatzle? 2/9/2012 02:57:33 am
Dear Lizzy,
Lizzy
2/9/2012 09:28:15 am
Hi Chopinand, yes, this was on Food Safari and I was jumping for joy when I saw it. You are right, nokedli would go well with Asian dishes, especially those with juicy sauces. 2/9/2012 06:41:56 am
Are you my kind of gal, or what. You can find this recipe, sans the pasta - on my site. One of my husband's country favourites - and I am making it today - so will make the spatzle too... I love that... what a great post. Love both collages! They are the way to go.
Lizzy
2/9/2012 09:29:36 am
How wonderful, Valerie, I didn't know you had paprikas csirke on your site. But now I do! I see our two versions are different, but both delicious. Do make the nokedli, it goes beautifully with the dish. Now tell me, is your husband Hungarian? 2/9/2012 01:38:07 pm
Comfort food at its very best. I love these soft noodles, they really appeal to me. Thank you for telling us about the history of this dish too!
Lizzy
3/9/2012 12:14:40 am
Anna, thank you ; ) 2/9/2012 06:22:02 pm
This looks great! I love the look of the soft noodles, it reminds me a little of the German spaetzle, yum :)
Lizzy
3/9/2012 05:01:38 pm
Hello Eileen! My noodles are nokedli, which are thicker and shorter than spatzle, but not dissimilar otherwise I guess. Yes, you are at the tail end of your summer now?.... which is good news for us, we have had a long, cold winter. Time for some sunshine. I do hope you will try my recipe and report back ; ) 15/10/2012 10:28:48 pm
Oh nokedli! My Hungarian grandmother gave me her nokedli making contraption when I went to visit her in Budapest last October. It is a treasured kitchen item - thanks for reminding me to use it! :)
Lizzy
29/3/2014 06:18:23 pm
Christie, thanks so much, what a treasured item! xo
Lizzy
28/10/2015 09:20:13 pm
Mary, thank you so much!
Lizzy
10/8/2017 09:16:32 pm
Thank you, Sharon x Comments are closed.
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Cooking and writing have been a lifelong passion. Join me as I share with you my favourite recipes; postcards and morsels from my travels; conversations with cookery writers and chefs; and news on food, cookbooks and cooking. - Liz Posmyk
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NB: I use Australian standard measuring cups and spoons in my recipes.
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