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Walnut Torte and Easter

5/4/2012

 

Walnut Torte and Easter

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Walnut Torte (Diós Torta), a cake that my mother (and my aunts) would bake for special events, such as Easter
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Easter is always something of a bittersweet occasion for me
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Walnuts (or dió as they are known in Hungarian) were a favourite in my mother's kitchen
Easter is always something of a bittersweet occasion for me. My beloved mother was in hospital in 1997 and slipped away from us two days after her 75th birthday on Easter Saturday that year. Two years later, the younger of my two (older) brothers passed, also in hospital and on an Easter Saturday. This snippet is dedicated with much love to my mum, Irén (Irene) and my brother, Sándor (Alex).

Mum was a passionate cook and an artisan baker. She was always baking, and if she wasn't baking, she was crocheting (another of her fine talents)! Her strudel dough was second to none, and her yeast cakes, doughnuts, tortes and slices were quite simply amazing. Looking back, I wish I had taken rolls of photos as she cooked, and scribed more of her recipes. Shortly after I was married, my parents retired to the seaside several hours away. So, while they were enjoying a peaceful life of whale watching, fishing and lawn bowls, I was busy working and raising a family, and opportunities for catch ups were relatively few and far between. 

A lifetime can pass by in the blink of an eye, you know. Mum loved it when I cooked for her and I regret that we didn't have more time together in her latter years to cook together and share recipes. But the images of her standing in the kitchen wearing her apron and a polka dot bandana are etched in my memory. And I am fortunate to have as keepsakes a small but treasured pile of her handwritten recipes; as well as those that she dictated to me as I typed on my little red Olivetti.

Walnuts (or dió as they are known in Hungarian) were a favourite in my mother's kitchen and she would while away time shelling and grinding them by hand for use in her baking. Walnut filled beigli, walnut cake or torta, little walnut kifli, and a magnificent walnut and chocolate Zserbó slice were among the walnut recipes on her repertoire. 

The recipe I am sharing with you here is for a Walnut Torte (Diós Torta) that my mother (and my aunts) would bake on very special occasions, such as Easter, birthdays and other anniversaries. It's a big, delicious, European cake. Like Dobos, one bite will have you fantasising about it for life! An aunt of mine would use a dozen eggs for the cake alone. While I watched mum bake this cake on numerous occasions as I was growing up, I didn't manage to jot down the recipe. Therefore, I have referred to the encyclopaedic Culinaria Hungary as a guide and adapted my recipe accordingly.

The cake itself is similar to a whipped sponge and, to my huge delight, I recently baked it successfully using gluten free flour. The rich, buttery walnut filling is unusual, in that it is based on a mixture of flour and milk (I used arrowroot) which is cooked to a custard-like consistency in a bowl over a pot of simmering water. (I have very distinct memories of watching my mother make this and all types of similar cooked custard fillings for cakes). Creamed cultured butter and sugar are added to the custard, along with walnuts and rum. The filling is a little 'gloopy' at first, but after beating well with the butter mixture, the consistency improves to a smooth creamy texture. The filled cake improves with age and is better in terms of texture and flavour on days two and three. Here is the receipt:

WALNUT TORTE 
250g ground walnuts, the fresher, the better
a few whole walnut pieces extra to decorate
good quality dark chocolate, grated, to decorate

For the sponge cake:
6 free range eggs
1 cup vanilla infused caster sugar
1 cup flour (plain or gluten free)
4 tablespoons rum or brandy

For the cream filling:
300mls milk
6 tablespoons plain flour or arrowroot
150g icing sugar, sifted
300g unsalted cultured butter, chopped, at room temperature
4 tablespoons rum or brandy
2 teaspoons fine vanilla sugar

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees C/350 degrees F. Prepare a 22cm/9 inch springform cake pan by greasing it and lining it with baking paper. 

Separate the eggs. Whisk the yolks with a 1/3 cup of the caster sugar until creamy. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites with the remaining caster sugar, until soft peaks form. Gently fold the flour and rum into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in 40g of the ground walnuts (note: the rest of the ground walnuts are used for the cream filling). 

Next, fold about a third of the whipped egg white mixture into the egg yolk mixture. This will make it easier to incorporate the rest of the whipped egg whites. Pour the mixture into the prepared springform pan and bake in the preheated oven for about 30-35 minutes or until the cake springs back gently when touched. Leave the cake to cool in the pan. When the cake is cool, slice it into two or three layers.

While the cake is baking make the cream filling. Combine the milk and flour or arrowroot in a bowl and mix until smooth. Pop the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir constantly until the mixture thickens to a custard like consistency. Set the custard aside and allow it to cool. Note: it may appear really 'gloopy', but this will improve. Cream the icing sugar and butter until smooth. Whip this mixture into the custard and beat well, then add the remaining ground walnuts, rum and vanilla sugar. Beat until this cream mixture is smooth, then pop it into the refrigerator to chill. You will be able to tell when it's ready to spread onto the cake, as it will have 'set' a little. Spread the cream filling over the layer/s of the cake and then over the top and sides. Sprinkle with grated dark chocolate and the extra ground walnuts. Decorate with whole walnuts.

Store, covered, in the refrigerator. Like many good Hungarian things, the cake will improve with age. *Wink*.

Easter Wishes and Love xox

Boldog húsvétot kivánok! Wishing you and yours a happy Easter. Thanks so much for your kind words and regular visits. I sincerely appreciate your friendship and support.

Incidentally, if you would like a taste of how the Magyars celebrate Easter, The Hungarian Girl has on her blog some lovely images taken at an Easter festival in a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hollókö in north eastern Hungary. 

In closing, I have decided to dedicate this snippet to my mum, my dad and both of my brothers, all wonderful cooks and none of whom are with us any longer. I miss them all so dearly. I look forward to spending Easter with Peter, and breaking bread with my daughter, my son and some of our dear friends. What are your plans?

Step by Step process for Walnut Torte:
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Mum would while away time shelling and grinding walnuts by hand for use in her baking
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While I treasure my mum's beautiful old walnut grinder, I used a food processor
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Ingredients for the sponge cake
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Whisk the egg yolks and a third of the sugar until creamy. I am using my mum's rotary beater. They don't make em like that any more!
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Whip the egg whites and the rest of the sugar until soft peaks form
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Fold the flour and rum into the egg yolk mixture
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Fold the walnuts into the mixture
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Fold a small amount of the egg whites through the mixture. This will make it easier to incorporate the rest of the egg whites.
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Pour the mixture into a greased and well lined springform pan
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The sponge rose beautifully, though the cake did crack slightly. The gluten free flour performed very well.
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Ingredients for the filling
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The filling is unusual, in that it is based on a mixture of flour and milk (I used arrowroot) which is cooked to a custard-like consistency in a bowl over a pot of simmering water
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Slice the cake into two or three layers and spread each layer with the cooked, cooled cream filling
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Spread the filling over the top and sides of the cake and decorate with the remaining walnuts
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I added a sprinkle of grated Lindt dark chocolate and a few walnuts in the centre
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The texture of the cake and the cream filling is much nicer the day after baking
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Zita link
4/4/2012 11:02:36 pm

My mom bakes walnut cake a lot. Sometimes she changes the walnut for hazelnut.

Great story to read! Thanks for sharing.

Lizzy
4/4/2012 11:15:00 pm

Zita, thank you so much! Hazelnut would taste beautiful too! Thank you for your kind words. Boldog húsvétot kivánok! xo

Lisa (bakebikeblog) link
5/4/2012 04:53:30 am

Hi Lizzy - I hope that this Easter brings you nothing but happiness :)

Lizzy
5/4/2012 08:19:47 am

Thank you Lisa! Good to see you. How's the new baby and motherhood? Happy Easter to your beautiful family too.

Jane @ Shady Baker link
5/4/2012 09:10:40 am

Your amazing cooking would make your Mum so happy Lizzy! Wishing you a happy and restful Easter x PS Love these photos :)

Lizzy
5/4/2012 09:38:55 am

Jane, thank you, that is so very lovely of you! Wishing you and yours a very safe and restful Easter too. Thanks for visiting and for your kind words xox

InTolerant Chef
5/4/2012 10:33:06 am

What lovely memories, and lovely cake too! Ill certainly be making this beautiful cake, Yumm!
Isn't it great when you can convert your favorite recipes to gluten free? Its not (usually) as hard as you think!

Lizzy
5/4/2012 10:42:22 am

Hi there! Thank you... I hope you enjoy it. Yes, I love it when GF flour works well. Happy Easter!

vickie @bicdelou
5/4/2012 12:09:30 pm

My husband's Dad passed away some years ago on Easter. It is a bittersweet holiday for us as well. I enjoyed your story and the recipe looks delish! I use a rotary beater as well. Found mine in an antique store.

Lizzy
5/4/2012 12:51:03 pm

Hi Vickie, my thoughts are with you as well. Thank you for your kind words. Those old rotary whisks are brilliant! Happy Easter!

Fiona Tristram @SRKitchen link
5/4/2012 12:33:13 pm

Such bitter sweet memories, Lizzy. Thank you for sharing them. Wishing you and your family a wonderful Easter. xoxo

Lizzy
5/4/2012 12:51:29 pm

Thanks Fiona for your kind words. And to you and yours as well, a safe and happy Easter xox

Laura (Tutti Dolci) link
5/4/2012 05:22:53 pm

What a thoughtful reflection on your mother, and what a lovely torte to honor her with. I hope you and your family have a happy Easter celebration!

Lizzy
5/4/2012 05:26:19 pm

Thank you, Laura, so very kind of you to say! Easter blessings to you and your family too.

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
5/4/2012 05:31:14 pm

Lizzy thank you for sharing this wonderful recipe with us. I can imagine that it is a hard time for you with the memories of your mother *hugs* Happy Easter!

Lizzy
5/4/2012 05:45:52 pm

Thank you Lorraine, that is very sweet of you. I miss my family, but writing and sharing the story and the photographs has healing powers. It's good to remember our origins. Hugs back. Happy Easter xo

ChopinandMysaucepan link
5/4/2012 06:35:15 pm

Dear Lizzy,

Your mum looked awesomely beautiful in that photo. This is a beautiful dedication to your family and I hope this Easter bring you lots of happiness.

Lizzy
5/4/2012 06:55:32 pm

Aw, Chopind, you just brought tears to my eyes (in a good way). Thank you! Happy Easter to you and your beautiful family too xox

Deb (tasdevilgirl) link
5/4/2012 06:37:11 pm

horoughly enjoyed reading your blog, thank you for sharing with me and the pics are fabulous, wish I was there to eat it with you, have a happy easter.

Lizzy
5/4/2012 07:01:01 pm

Thanks so much! That is very kind of you to say. Thank you for stopping by and have a wonderful Easter!

The Food Sage link
5/4/2012 10:29:01 pm

Thinking of you this weekend, Lizzy. What better way to pay tribute to your family members than to share a wonderful family loved recipe, such as this. I adore walnuts. Have done since i was a little girl. When i find the freshest ones possible, i will be making this. Looking forward to it xxx

Lizzy
5/4/2012 10:31:43 pm

Rachel, thank you. You and I are definitely kindred spirits! I love walnuts too and love the freshest ones! Happy Easter my friend xox

A Canadian Foodie link
7/4/2012 02:15:20 am

Now there is a lotta love on that plate! Love how you do the step by steps like I do on my site - takes one to appreciate another! (Though I haven't posted any cooking for so long, it is sad) I learn so much by how it is to look and I am so visual! Appreciated. Love the ingredients photo, too. Beautiful.
:)
V

Lizzy
7/4/2012 08:40:25 am

Mmmm, there sure is. Why aren't you posting recipes nowadays, Valerie? Thanks for popping in. Happy Easter to you. xox

Amanda link
7/4/2012 11:53:17 am

Lizzy, thanks so much for sharing your memories and this beautiful cake recipe. I think this is one that will be perfect for adapting to the Thermomix - can't wait to give it a try.

Lizzy
7/4/2012 02:44:44 pm

Hi Amanda, perfect... you can use plain flour, or gluten free. Let me know how it goes. And thank you for your kind words. All the best!

celia link
7/4/2012 12:06:20 pm

Beautiful post Lizzy, and a lovely way to remember both your mum and your brother! Your cake looks magnificent! My neighbour June once gave me a lesson on how to make her Dobos cake - I've never made it, but I can still remember the taste - as you say, it's one I'll fantisise about for life! :)

Lizzy
7/4/2012 02:45:46 pm

Celia, thank you so much! I am not very good at decorating cakes, so the images are taken from above. Dobos is absolutely divine too! Thanks for popping in, happy Easter!

Bambi link
9/4/2012 06:40:43 pm

What a lovely family story! And thanks for sharing a family recipe. It looks absolutely divine! xx

Lizzy
9/4/2012 08:16:55 pm

Hey there... thank you! Such kind words. Hope you and your little ones had a happy Easter xox

Erin @ she cooks, she gardens link
9/4/2012 06:57:13 pm

Love to you at this difficult time of year, Lizzy. Thank you for sharing your recipe and your story. It's hard when times like these invoke memories of painful memories, it sounds as though you have many wonderful memories to balance them out though.

ps - I love the old grinder, is it difficult to use?

Lizzy
9/4/2012 08:18:14 pm

Hi Erin, thank you. It's all good, such fond memories to keep me smiling. The walnut grinder still works well and I love the plunger part of it, which is oil stained with walnut oil. I just don't clip it onto our granite bench, for fear of cracking it.

Claire @ Claire K Creations link
9/4/2012 07:49:26 pm

It's wonderful to be able to have so many lovely memories of your mother. I bet it's like she's right there by you when you bake her recipes.

Lizzy
9/4/2012 08:18:52 pm

Oh, such a lovely thing to say Claire... that brought a tear to my eye (a happy one). Thanks for popping in xox

Mrs_Mulberry link
12/4/2012 08:00:57 pm

A beautiful tribute Lizzy, thank you for sharing. I hope this Easter bought some new happy memories.

Lizzy
12/4/2012 08:03:25 pm

Thank you, Mrs M. It did indeed. I hope you enjoyed a happy Easter too!

Barbara link
12/4/2012 08:22:50 pm

A lovely tribute to your family Lizzy. I love this style of cake. It wasn't a cake my mother ever baked but an aunt of mine always purchased a shop one for their family celebrations. I seem to remember the custard filling was very boozy.

Lizzy
12/4/2012 08:40:28 pm

Barbara, thank you. I do too. So very continental, so very delicious! Yes, it can be. One of my readers made it this week for her husband's birthday, and I think she sploshed a bit extra in! LOL. Hope you are getting along well and enjoyed a happy Easter, my friend.


Comments are closed.

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    Üdvözölöm
    Photo of Liz Posmyk, Food Writer, Cook and Traveller

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