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Mahlebieh – Paradise Custard

23/8/2015

55 Comments

 
Mahlebieh – Paradise Custard
Yotam Ottolenghi waxed lyrical about the milk puddings of the Middle East in an episode of his television series, Jerusalem on a Plate. During a scene where YO bought a cup of malabi from a street vendor then devoured it, Peter looked my way and said ‘That sounds so good, you must make it for us!’

His wish is my command when it comes to food and cooking. I found a selection of recipes in my library – the first of which, Mahlebieh or almond cream pudding, is in Anto der Haroutunain’s Middle Eastern Cookery. A favourite on our shelves, Peter bought it during a 1980s peacekeeping mission in the Sinai. ‘Mahlebieh,’ der Haroutunain writes, ‘is Arabic meaning “with milk” and the pudding should be served chilled’. The author offers a few interesting variations, including the Turkish sakiz muhallebisi made with mastic.

The late Tess Mallos also included a recipe for Muhallabia, or almond cream pudding (noted as being from ‘Lebanon, Syria Jordan’), in her Middle Eastern Home Cooking. I note that hers is beautifully garnished with jewel-like pomegranate seeds and pistachio nuts.

In New Food of Life – Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Ceremonies, Najmieh Matmanglij shares a recipe sans the ground rice and almonds. Paradise Custard, or Yakh dar behesht (which translates lyrically to “Ice in Paradise”), includes cardamom pods and a garnish of slivered almonds. I am taken by the name "Paradise Custard" and will use it for my adaptation, methinks.

Ground almonds and ground rice, together with almond essence, feature in the traditional Ottoman dessert known as keşkül or almond cream, included in Claudia Roden’s Tamarind and Saffron. ‘Milk puddings are a specialty of the Middle East and this is my favourite,’ Ms Roden writes. I make a mental note to check the freezer to see if I have any almonds.

Vanilla and bay leaf syrup, together with desiccated coconut and chopped pistachios, is the garnish for the Muhallabieh or malabi showcased in Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. ‘It is fair to say that Arabs and Jews share a fascination with these milky desserts,’ they mention. Me too, I say. Must try the bay leaf syrup. 

Perusing this pile of recipes was as far as I’d come with this dessert, until my next encounters with it...  in Dubai.

We should have been en route to London, but our flight was delayed from the start, which meant a fleeting, unexpected stopover in the UAE – a real pain in the butt given that we had already spent nine hours waiting in the Emirates Lounge in Melbourne! Dubai International Airport is the mother of all airports – it's massive and as busy as an airport can get. After disembarking and trudging from one end of the airport to the other, then queuing for 45 minutes to collect accommodation and meal vouchers, we waited 30 agonising minutes more for our transfer to the hotel.

Outside, it was 40 degrees C and I was in my winter-down-under denims and a long-sleeved tee. My feet ached and I could barely keep my eyes open. After checking in, we had a scant four hours to throw down some food, shower and get some sleep, before getting back to the airport at midnight! No time to have a dip in the pool, which looked ever-so inviting!

In the dining room, Peter, who was ravenous, left my side in a flash to make his way to the smorgasbord and load up a plate. Almost in a stupor and not feeling hungry, I circled the buffet, and then the mahlebieh caught my eye. It was in a large, glass dish atop a mountain of ice. I filled my little bowl, returned to my seat and, with my elbows on the table, spooned the exquisite pudding into my mouth – nonchalantly observing the other guests. The Indian man with his three little boys. The middle aged woman wearing the ḥijāb. The talkative Danish couple that we met on the bus. Would they notice if I went back for a second or third helping, I wondered? Being so tired, I was beyond caring. 

Eating that silky concoction was like slipping into a soft towelling robe after a cooling shower. Sleep was to follow quickly and, though it was brief, it was deep and I snored contentedly – dreaming that I was in my kitchen at home making mahlebieh for my Peter.

MAHLEBIEH – PARADISE CUSTARD
35g maize cornflour
250mls milk
100mls water
40g vanilla-infused caster sugar
a few drops of orange blossom water or rose water

To garnish:
1 tablespoon pistachio nuts, roughly crushed 
2-3 large strawberries, diced

Pour 50mls of the milk into a small Pyrex jug and sprinkle the cornflour over the milk, then whisk to a smooth paste. Combine the remaining 200mls of milk with the water and vanilla-infused caster sugar in a saucepan. Heat gently over a medium-low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Pour in the cornflour mixture and stir until the mixture begins to boil and thicken. 

 At this stage, I recommend you either pour the custard into a Pyrex jug and, from there, pour into attractive serving dishes. Alternatively, ladle the milky custard carefully into the serving dishes. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 2-3 hours until the mahlebieh has set. 

When ready to serve, sprinkle the top of the pudding with the diced strawberries and the pistachio nuts. Serves 2-4, depending on the size of your appetite and your dishes. 
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A hot August afternoon in Dubai by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Views to Dubai skyscrapers as seen from the beach at the Sofitel on the Palm

In closing, I had the pleasure of eating mahlebieh once more in Dubai, this time on our way home some six weeks or so later. It was to be the BEST Lebanese meal that I have eaten in my entire life. More on this in a future postcards and morsels post. Now, tell me dear readers, do you enjoy Middle Eastern puddings? 
55 Comments
Krista link
22/8/2015 11:18:32 pm

I'm entranced by your descriptions, Liz. :-) Creamy pudding has always been a favorite of mine since I was little. It is ultimate comfort and solace to me. I can't wait to try some of the versions you described. :-)

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:53:25 pm

Krista, thank you, that is so very kind. Do try these, they really are lovely! xx

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Mandy link
23/8/2015 02:38:22 am

Oh my what a wonderful dessert. I too would have not cared about going back for seconds and thirds. :-)
I have those exact serving dishes Lizzy. I shall have to get them out and make your fabulous custard.
Have a wonderful and happy week ahead.
:-) Mandy xo

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:53:44 pm

Mandy, thank you. Don't these little dishes look so pretty! xx

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Glenda link
23/8/2015 03:51:53 am

Liz, how long ago did I tell you that this wonderful dessert and creme brulee were my all time favourite desserts? I just love it but I don't just use few drops of rose water. I make (a modified) Claudia Roden's recipe.

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:54:48 pm

I do remember, Glenda... you and I are alike on this... as far as I am concerned, forget those syringe embellished cronuts and ghastly looking freak shakes, and give me a simple, exquisite tasting sweet any day! xx

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Glenda link
24/8/2015 02:39:42 am

Liz, my favourite topping, at the moment, is little cubes of rose flavoured Turkish Delight. Give it a bash.

Amanda (@lambsearsandhoney.com) link
23/8/2015 09:20:29 am

What a lovely, simple custard dish - perfect for a trifle, too!

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:55:04 pm

Indeed, Amanda. Good thinking x

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David link
23/8/2015 09:26:08 am

This seems so simple, Liz - and as we know, the simplest things can be best, and most elegant! A must try!

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Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:55:36 pm

Absolutely David. The (second) one served in the restaurant in Dubai was the epitome of elegance! xx

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John / Kitchen Riffs link
23/8/2015 11:58:01 am

Really interesting dish! And not one I've had before. Love smooth, creamy deserts like this. Thanks!

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Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:55:53 pm

Thank you, John, you might like to try this sometime : )

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@ChristineSalins (FoodWineTravel) link
23/8/2015 12:33:29 pm

This sounds so delicious Liz. I especially like the sound of the pomegranate and pistachio garnish! Two of my favourite things.

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Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:56:22 pm

Thanks Christine, it really is. And there's something lovely about pomegranate!

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e / dig in hobart link
23/8/2015 01:17:58 pm

i think of custard as a winter thing - but then again, chilled and silky and with those delicious flavourings, it would be as refreshing as any ice cream.

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:56:43 pm

Funnily enough, E, even more so than ice cream x

Reply
Eha
23/8/2015 01:22:14 pm

For a gal who does not make or eat dessert this one is quite a drawcard! Love Ottolenghi but my newest fave is Rick Stein's 'Venice to Istanbul' which I just can't put aside! Practical! Homely! Fun! There is life in the old guy yet to write and in me hopefully to be a disciple :) ! Oh, love the elegance of that photo in Dubai . . .

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:57:21 pm

Swoon, Rick Stein... and Venice to Istanbul... I've been seeing that on social media. He is a legend, isn't he! Thanks for your kind words about the photo.

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Hotly Spiced link
23/8/2015 02:39:13 pm

I don't think I've had too many Middle Eastern puddings. The custard sounds amazing but in that heat, I'm not sure if I'd go to the buffet or swim in the pool xx

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:57:57 pm

Thanks Charlie... honestly, there was no time to go swimming... and we would have been carting wet swimwear in our bags for the next leg of the journey... : )

Reply
Lizzy
6/10/2015 07:36:40 pm

Actually, now that I think about it, we didn't have our swimmers... they were in the luggage at the airport.

Joanne T Ferguson link
23/8/2015 04:07:03 pm

Your mahlebieh looks delicious Lizzy and what a great history! I wish I could try it now!

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:58:12 pm

Thanks so much, Joanne x

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Padaek link
23/8/2015 05:35:46 pm

Looks like such a delicious dessert! And appropriately named too, I'm sure. Missed your storytelling, it's wonderful!

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Lizzy
23/8/2015 07:58:37 pm

Hiya Padaek, welcome back! It really is a lovely dessert. Oh, thank you for your very kind words xxx

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Laura (Tutti Dolci) link
23/8/2015 06:26:02 pm

Lovely custard, the texture looks sublime!

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Lizzy
23/8/2015 08:00:06 pm

Laura, thanks so much!

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Tandy | Lavender and Lime link
23/8/2015 09:41:09 pm

I am going to try this for sure! Delayed flights are the pits, but at least you were put up in an hotel :)

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Lizzy
23/8/2015 10:50:39 pm

Good to hear, Tandy... um, I should have mentioned, we had already spent nine hours in the Emirates lounge in Melbourne... overnight... so to have a further delay in Dubai was a real pain in the you know what!

Reply
Lizzy
23/8/2015 10:56:53 pm

I've added that detail to my story...

Zsuzsa link
24/8/2015 07:37:55 am

What a lovely dessert Lizzy. Dubai so far away from your home. I am not surprised you were tired.

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Lizzy
24/8/2015 10:50:31 am

Zsuzsa, thank you for your kind words my friend x

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kellie@foodtoglow link
24/8/2015 07:52:04 pm

Wonderful descriptions of what could have been a horrible experience. Okay, it was horrible but lightened by your dream Arabic dessert. Looks amazing and as silky smooth as your prose. :)

Reply
Lizzy
29/8/2015 08:11:17 pm

Thank you ever so much, Kellie, for you very kind words xx

Reply
Lizzy
29/8/2015 08:11:32 pm

Thank you ever so much, Kellie, for you very kind words. xx

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Steven link
25/8/2015 01:38:27 pm

Delicious dessert.

Reply
Lizzy
29/8/2015 08:11:44 pm

Thank you, Steven.

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Gerlinde @ Sunnycovechef link
25/8/2015 05:43:52 pm

I love custards and this one looks delicious. My mom used to make them on Sundays or for a special meal.

Reply
Lizzy
29/8/2015 08:12:08 pm

I'm a big fan of custards of all descriptions too, Gerlinde xx

Reply
Gourmet Getaways link
26/8/2015 10:13:14 pm

oh this looks so good!
I would use rose water as I love that flavour in Middle Eastern recipes.
Thanks for sharing
Julie

Reply
Lizzy
29/8/2015 08:12:42 pm

Me too, Julie... or you can combine rose and orange blossom water for a real kick of Middle Eastern flavour!

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Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
30/8/2015 08:01:31 pm

That sounds delicious! I haven't seen his series but it sounds delicious and full of interesting food-I've never been to Jerusalem before!

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Lizzy
11/11/2015 01:12:50 am

Interesting, huh, Lorraine.

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Maureen | Orgasmic Chef link
16/9/2015 07:02:56 am

I LOVE Lebanese food and I would have been right by your side choosing every dish on the menu. This custard looks beautiful and I bet it would send my taste buds to Heaven.

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Lizzy
11/11/2015 01:12:34 am

Absolutely xx

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Mary Frances link
17/9/2015 09:46:02 am

Such a yummy and well presented dessert. This would be perfect for a dinner party I'm going to have this weekend.

Reply
Lizzy
11/11/2015 01:12:27 am

I hope you tried these? x

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Mary Frances link
14/10/2015 06:23:10 pm

Great presentation, recipe and even better toppings!! Looks so yummy!

Reply
Lizzy
11/11/2015 01:12:15 am

Thanks Mary Frances.

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The FoodTrotter link
19/10/2015 10:09:11 am

Your custards look gorgeous! I am sure it is incredibly tasty :)

Reply
Lizzy
11/11/2015 01:12:01 am

Thank you kindly!

Reply
mjskit link
11/11/2015 10:55:11 pm

What a lovely custard! Puddings, custards, flans are my favorite desserts and this one is right up there. I've never had anything like this so I'm very curious. I'm wonderful if I could use masa harina in place of the cornflour. Might have to give it a try. Thanks for added a new dessert to my repertoire.

Reply
JayanthiSindhiya link
13/11/2015 07:44:54 pm

Tis looks gorgeous

Reply
Gourmet Getaways link
15/11/2015 09:30:57 pm

Oh I know I would love this!!
All the ingredients work so well together :)
Thanks so much for sharing,
Julie
Gourmet Getaways

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