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A conversation with Mork Ratanakosol - Morks Restaurant, Canberra

11/12/2014

11 Comments

 
Mork Ratanakosol of Morks Restaurant in Canberra Australia - photo by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
My first few encounters with chef Mork Ratanakosol took place when his contemporary Thai restaurant was a delicious secret tucked away in a side alley of a suburban shopping centre. With such an innovative and original menu, and flavour-packed food, I had always imagined that Morks was destined for bigger and better things – so I was none too surprised when the establishment relocated to the Kingston Foreshore in springtime last year.

The move has paid off and the accolades have been notable. Indeed, Morks has just been listed as one of Canberra's Top 20 Restaurants 2014 by goodfood. When that list includes stalwarts such as Ottoman, Courgette, Aubergine and Sage, a number 14 badge is not to be sniffed at, methinks.

So, Morks is now in a trendier (some might even say 'destined-to-be-grand') quayside location, but the food is as good as ever, and the vibe is non-pretentious and fun. Trendy young things wearing short shorts and flip flops sit comfortably alongside the suits. Morks has even created the #dogsoftheforeshore hashtag, an Instagram and Facebook gallery where visiting diners can proudly share photos of their pooches.

In terms of the menu, Morks offers a selection of entrees, mains and desserts that can be shared but are portioned for the individual. Frankly, when it comes to dishes like Morks soft shell crab slider, or the lamb cutlets with nham jim, I'm more than delighted to have a serving all to myself! 

Entrees include mouth watering morsels such as pork crackling and chilli jam salad; 'Angel' prawns in a kaffir lime and coconut curry; and scallops and pig ear terrine with chilli relish. For mains there's an insanely good mussamun beef curry; pork belly with caramel, kapi rice and apple salad; and of course those lamb cutlets. Vegetarian options are available too. Desserts are dreamy: there's the hugely popular egg in hay, comprising vanilla ice cream with roti and saffron pashmak (which I paid homage to with this recipe); the cheekily named strawberry gigolo, which is a strawberry shortcake with eton mess; and sirius black, a rich and velvety chocolate mousse with salty caramel peanut 'soil' and whipped cream; among others.

During our most recent pilgrimage to Morks on a 'quiet Tuesday', I had the opportunity to chat briefly with Mork before the dining room unexpectedly packed out. Our conversation follows below, AND Mork generously shares a secret family recipe!

Door to Morks Restaurant photo by Good Things
The Morks team busy at work

A conversation with Mork... 

Mork Ratanakosol owner of Morks Restaurant in Canberra - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Congratulations on the success of Morks so far, particularly now that you’ve moved to the Kingston Foreshore. And 'well done' on being listed as one of Good Food’s Canberra's top 20 restaurants for 2014, woo hoo!
Thank you very much, Lizzy.

I know that you grew up working in restaurants and that your parents owned Sukothai Restaurant in Yarralumla for 19 years. Tell me a little about how the family came to be in Australia, and particularly Canberra.
My parents wanted to move to Australia for better opportunities for the kids. Our grandparents and auntie were here in Canberra already, so that's where my parents ended up. They loved Canberra for its natural beauty, lack of pollution and safe environment. Having now lived here for 26 years, I think its good points have largely stayed the same.  

What is your earliest food memory?
The earliest food memory for me was my grandma's five spice braised pork belly. She is a superb cook and she was the one who raised me most of the time while my parents were hard at work.  

What is the philosophy at Morks Restaurant?
Don't be boring! Take traditional Thai food and mess with it whilst keeping it super approachable. 

Is there one dish that is a stand out in terms of popularity with your diners?
Our lamb cutlets are a relatively new item on the menu but they have been very popular.  

[And that's because they are soooooooooo good!].


Do you have an all-time favourite recipe?
The Ratanakosol ‘secret’ marinade. We use it on all our grilled meats. 

Who are your food heroes and who or what inspires you, Mork?
Food hero would have to be Neil Perry. From a young age I would watch him on TV and was so inspired by his work. I'm also very inspired by street food and peasant food because I believe that it is the essence of cuisine. Recently, I have been reading a lot of material from David Chang and Dan Hong. Those guys are crazy good!

Is there a recipe you'd like to share with Good Things readers?
Yes, I would like to share with your readers the ‘secret’ Ratanakosol marinade. 

[Wow, thank you Mork, that is awesome!].


THE ‘SECRET’ RATANAKOSOL MARINADE
This recipe is sufficient for about eight lamb cutlets. It’s very simple, but so effective. 
3 cloves garlic
a thumb-sized piece fresh ginger
a thumb-sized piece fresh lemongrass
4 coriander roots
1 tablespoon white pepper

Combine the above ingredients in a food processor and blend to a paste. 

You also need:
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon Xiao Xing wine

Combine the above ingredients in a bowl along with the paste. Add the lamb cutlets and mix well to coat. Marinate over night or for a minimum of six hours. For the best results, grill on a BBQ to ‘desired doneness’. You can substitute lamb for chicken, quail, beef, pork, or any meat you desire. 

And finally, what's for dinner tonight?
We are going to the Artisan for dinner! Go Canberra chefs!!!!!

Thanks again Mork, I've really enjoyed catching up with you.
It's been a pleasure, Lizzy.



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Postcards and morsels - Morks contemporary Thai cuisine...

The chefs working behind the scenes at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
BBQ pork bun at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
BBQ pork bun entree
Soft shell crab slider at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Soft shell crab slider entree
Angel prawns at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Angel prawns entree served with rustic lids
Salad and chilli bread with beef curry at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Salad greens and chilli bread served with the curry
Beef chuck stewed mussamun style at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Beef chuck stewed mussamun style served with chilli bread and salad greens
Lamb cutlets with nham jim and baby cos at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Those fabulous lamb cutlets with the secret dressing, served with nham jim jeaow and baby cos
Yeah, those lamb cutlets are GOOD! at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Yeah, those cutlets are soooooooooo good!
Sirius black chocolate mousse at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Sirius black chocolate mousse with salted caramel peanut soil and whipped cream
Eggs in hay at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Egg in hay dessert comprises ice cream with saffron pashmak, condensed milk and roti

Mork and his dedicated band of brothers...

Nei, Mork, Suneel and Benn at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Nei Ratanakosol, Mork Ratanakosol, sous chef Suneel Gadipelli and Benn Ratanakosol

Morks = grand location, great food, non-pretentious dining...

Funky poster at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Lights at Morks - image by Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Morks Restaurant is located at 18/19 Eastlake Parade on the Kingston Foreshore in Canberra, Australia. For more information about Morks and the menu, visit the web site. 

Note: this is an exclusive interview with Mork Ratanakosol. Good Things has not been paid to write this article and we dined at Morks at our own expense.

Tell me dear readers, do you enjoy innovative cuisine? How about Thai food, what's your favourite dish? For my Australian readers, have you dined at Morks? 

Thank you for taking the time to stop by and comment. It's truly appreciated. ッ 
11 Comments
Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
11/12/2014 04:47:47 pm

I've heard so many good things about Mork's! And great that you got the marinade recipe! :o

Reply
Joanne T Ferguson link
11/12/2014 06:14:46 pm

G'day Great interview Lizzy and the foods look mouth watering indeed!
The secret marinade looks deliciously lip smacking indeed!
Cheers! Joanne

Reply
Francesca link
12/12/2014 07:20:21 am

The food looks sensational. wished I lived closer.

Reply
Eha
12/12/2014 11:12:45 am

'They' should pay you a King's Ransom for attracting us all to Canberra! I remember flying over the city some 20 years back and the Captain coming on and saying 'I am sorry if you will experience some turbulence during the next ten minutes or so: we will be flying over a lot of hot air' ;) !! Well I do wish I was living amidst all that 'hot air' 'cause here is another reason to do so - shall check with Canberra/surrounds friends that they know of this v special restaurant! Thanks Liz, and have a good weekend !!!

Reply
Maureen Shaw link
12/12/2014 11:57:40 am

I love the "don't be boring" statement. How true!

Mork has the best smile too. The brother on the left needs to lighten up. :) LOL

I'd love to dine at Mork's place, Liz!

Reply
Padaek link
12/12/2014 01:41:49 pm

Great post and interview Lizzy! Marinate recipe sounds amazing!! Food looks excellent. Very modern, innovative dishes. Yum! Love Thai food. Mussamun is always a great classic. :)

Reply
Peter
13/12/2014 06:55:37 am

Those lamb cutlets are THE BEST.... Mork, you're a legend for sharing that recipe.

Reply
Hotly Spiced link
13/12/2014 08:59:26 am

I would love to try Morks. Thais don't often cook with lamb so it's great to see he has lamb cutlets on his menu. The food scene in Canberra just seems to get better and better xx

Reply
Red Nomad OZ link
13/12/2014 06:00:48 pm

FAAAABULOUS marinade recipe! I'm an each-way-bet kinda gal when it comes to 'innovative' - there's a fine line between true innovation and self-indulgence IMHO! But this restaurant looks amazing!!!

Reply
InTolerant Chef link
13/12/2014 06:45:01 pm

Love, love, love Morks Liz! The food is fabulous indeed an has such a nice fresh approach to it. I took some classes with Mork a couple of years ago and the best part about it was that infectious, cheeky grin :) x

Reply
Rosemarie link
15/12/2014 07:27:55 pm

Great Interview Liz!! I love the fact that you got the secret marinade recipe too! I have seen some pictures of fried chicken on their FB page but it is not on their menu... would really like to try that!

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