Our grocery list changes significantly during autumn. Apples, pears, persimmons, pomegranates and rhubarb go into the market basket, along with broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, celeriac, fennel, leeks, parsnips and potatoes. Peter does a happy dance at the mere sight of potatoes, he loves them so, particularly when I cook them as mash. He and my father would have made a great pair. Dad was renowned for making huge pots of mashed potato to accompany his Rostélyos or slow-braised steak with onions. Incidentally, I plan to share the recipe for Rostélyos here in the fullness of time, it was fine (finom)! My father loved to cook and potter, although he never seemed to spend enough time in the kitchen, which was firmly my mother's domain. Clearly, I have inherited traits from both my parents. Just ask Peter, I'm sure he'd be delighted to tell that he (almost) has to make an appointment to use the kitchen because I'm always in there pottering or cooking. Ha! It's not that bad, truly it isn't. シ Moving on, let's focus on my featured recipe. Apple and bacon potato mash is a traditional and much loved German dish, known as himmel und erde, which translates to 'heaven and earth'. This is peasant food at its best, comprising mashed potatoes (and often turnips, too), served with apple sauce, bacon and onions. Himmel und erde is usually served as a side to black pudding or Blutwurst. It's surprisingly delicious as a stand alone meal, but also makes a tasty, if not indulgent, accompaniment to pork chops. With Swabian origins on my father's side, I think he would have eaten this with as much gusto as I do. My receipt is adapted from a version in Sophie Grigson's Country Kitchen, in which chunks of apple are added to the potato pot close to the end of cooking. Ms Grigson writes that 'the apples impart a mild, fruity sourness to a rich buttery mash' and 'it's great with sausages, chops, fish (particularly cod or salmon), and other elemental, plainly cooked main courses'. You'll need to source floury potatoes which are good for mashing, some smoked bacon, and a handful of cooking apples. I like to to add more apples for a burst of extra flavour. APPLE AND BACON POTATO MASH (Himmel und Erde) 750g floury potatoes 350g cooking apples 30g butter 4 rashers smoked bacon 1 tablespoon fresh chives sea salt, to taste Peel the potatoes and cut them into chunks. Place them into a medium sized saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and core the apples, and cut them into segments. When the potatoes are close to being cooked, add the apples. Cover and cook until the apples are just tender. While the apples and potatoes finish cooking, cut the bacon into diced pieces. Fry them in a cast iron pan over a low heat, until they are crisp and well browned. Drain on paper towelling and set aside to keep warm. If you prefer, you could grill the bacon pieces too. Remove the saucepan of potatoes and apples from the heat, strain off the water, add the butter and some salt, then mash to a smooth consistency. Add some of the crisp bacon to the mash and stir it through. Spoon the whole thing onto a serving platter or bowl, top with the remaining bacon and finish off with a sprinkling of chopped chives. Serves 4. Tell me dear readers and fellow cooks, have you ever eaten himmel und erde? Perhaps it's a traditional dish in your family? Do you think you might try this recipe? Do please share your stories. I love hearing from you.
22 Comments
18/3/2015 02:15:22 pm
G'day! My mum was of German descent and your dish reminds me of childhood Himmel und erde yum Lizzy!
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18/3/2015 08:55:50 pm
I haven't ever eaten it but it looks absolutely delicious. I can really see the apples working in it and of course bacon goes with everything! :P
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Heaven on Earth is absolutely is Lizzy. My Pete is equally as enthusiastic about spuds so will definitely be making these for him although I will no doubt have to increase the bacon for his portion as that is another one of his favourites.
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19/3/2015 05:07:01 am
Himmel und erde is a new dish for me, but it sounds really good. First, bacon -- need I say more? ;-) Second, really like the idea of adding apples to mashed potatoes. Have not done that, so I'll be trying it. Really nice -- thanks.
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19/3/2015 06:57:32 am
So delicious, had forgotten about this way to serve potatoes!
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19/3/2015 10:44:51 am
I've put a lot of things in mashed potatoes but never apple. What a great idea! I have put lots of bacon in but that apple sounds delicious.
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Eha
19/3/2015 01:06:10 pm
'Himmel und Erde' was truly part of my childhood, four years of which I lived amongst the Schwäbish: OMG, we would have a heap of recipes to compare, gell :) ? And am so looking forwards to the 'rostelyos' which methinks translates into an Estonian favourite 'sibulaklops' . . . braised beef [collops] with slowly fried onions!!!
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19/3/2015 06:41:35 pm
Do you know, I don't ever recall having had this as a child. My grandparents are all German, but I cannot even ask them if we ate this, so I will have to ask my mom. PS you have a typo - My receipt is adapted from .... xox Tandy
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Lizzy
19/3/2015 08:58:41 pm
Thanks Tandy.... how interesting that your grandparents are all Germanic too... yes do ask your mum. PS 'Receipt' is an old fashioned term for 'Recipe'. xox
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19/3/2015 08:41:59 pm
I do love your enamel plate. When I was growing up mashed potato was my most favourite thing. I've never tried this German version with apples and bacon but it looks and sounds fantastic xx
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19/3/2015 10:57:43 pm
This reminds me of when I was a kid, my brother and I went through this period of coming up with strange & different ingredients to put with our potatoes. Turns out mash is like bacon, pretty much anything goes. Soooo good!
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21/3/2015 04:27:26 am
Lizzy - this looks wonderful And, as we are headed to Germany this summer, I think I will make this in the next few weeks to "prime the pump" for our visit.
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21/3/2015 06:18:50 am
Love it just as it is - simple, easy, tasty! Thanks for sharing!!
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22/3/2015 03:37:22 pm
I've never had this dish but you can be sure I will have on my menu for Easter dinner (we're serving Ham and a hot/cold smoked salmon). JTs family will love it! Koszonom szivesen
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24/3/2015 08:57:40 am
Wow, what a delicious and savory way to serve potatoes!
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24/3/2015 09:02:57 pm
I love this combination Liz. I laughed when you said about Peter needing to make an appointment. Anthony is begging me to get a 2nd sink with our renovation as he 'never has access to water'. I told him to use the laundy!
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26/3/2015 10:50:31 pm
I love the way you turn ordinary dishes into gastronomic masterpieces! I'd quite happily eat this without any accompaniment - it sounds wonderful!
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Sophy
31/3/2015 02:59:32 pm
Hi Liz
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Lizzy
31/3/2015 04:44:04 pm
Hi Sophy, I will do so, thanks kindly for the feedback! Watch this space xo
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Cooking and writing have been a lifelong passion. Join me as I share with you my favourite recipes; postcards and morsels from my travels; conversations with cookery writers and chefs; and news on food, cookbooks and cooking. - Liz Posmyk
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NB: I use Australian standard measuring cups and spoons in my recipes.
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