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Celebrating Australia's first cookery book at the National Library of Australia

2/9/2014

 
National Library of Australia in Canberra by Liz Posmyk
National Library of Australia in Canberra
Among the gems in my library of cookery books is a 1970 edition of The Colonial Cookbook, which is an abridged version of the first Australian cookbook, The English and Australian Cookery Book: Cooking for the Many as well as the 'Upper Ten Thousand, which was written by 'An Australian Artistologist', Edward Abbott and published in 1864.

Among the treasured paragraphs is this dedication:
TO
HIS FAIR COUNTRYWOMEN OF THE "BEAUTIFUL LAND,"
THE "BLUE-EYED DAUGHTERS WITH THE FLAXEN HAIR,"
THE LADIES OF "THE SUNNY SOUTH,"

THIS BOOK,
OF THE COOKERY OF THE DAY, IS RESPECTFULLY
INSCRIBED,
BY THEIR FAITHFUL SERVANT,
"THE AUTHOR".

In the introductory preface, the author, Edward Abbott, recommends that 'the housewife who diligently follows this book will become proficient in all aspects of cookery and please her family and guests whether it be at breakfast, luncheon or dinner, or whether it be with soups, meat pies, confections of all sorts, various tipple, or economy by preserving and by the better management of her servants. For within this volume the good housewife (for I address no other) will find advice on all these subjects and yet more besides.'

Indeed, there are 'diverse' recipes for the 'foods of Australia', including emu, kangaroo and wombat — as well as black swan, wattle bird, wild pigeons, mutton bids, eels, oysters and fresh water cod. Chapters cover: The Huswife's Guide to the Better Ordering of Her Household (good and bad huswifery); Soups and Broths (wholesome and warming); Sauces, Flavourings and Accompaniments (to gild the lily and tempt the jaded palate); Fish (the fruits of Neptune's Kingdom); Meat, Poultry and Game (diverse dishes to delight the discerning diner); Vegetables, Salads, Pasta and Rice (to accompany and complement the finest dishes); Pastry, Puddings and Confectionery (including pies and other pleasantries for your pantry); Bread, Cakes and Biscuits (exquisite culinary masterpieces); Dairy Food (farm fresh provisions to feast on as you fancy); Refreshing and Intoxicating Tipple for All Occasions; All About Preserving (with a few receipts for keeping food throughout the year); and A Gentlewoman's Guide to All Occasions (A short treatise on the art of cooking for presidents and paupers). 

There are also menus and a useful, if not interesting, glossary. And, perhaps my favourite, Scraps and Sayings, which include recommendations such as 'Feathers should be thoroughly dried before being used' and 'Keep your salt spoons out of the salt, and clean them often.' Most importantly, 'You must drink, as usual, after an egg as after an ox' and 'Good kale is half a meal'.

Abbott took care to point out that he took some trouble with research for the book, 'for it is the first cookery book devoted to the Australian cuisine' and he added, 'I hope it ill be equally acceptable in the Mother Country as I think it will be in the colonies.' Looking ahead, he also noted, 'It is amusing to consider just how fair Australia will be in 100 years. Will it then be a great nation with millions of souls living within great cities?' If only he could have travelled forward in time to see!

A special event...

To celebrate the 150th anniversary and the new print and digital editions of The English and Australian Cookery Book by Edward Abbott, the National Library of Australia is hosting what promises to be a delicious afternoon of food conversation. Esteemed food historians and writers Professor Emeritus Barbara Santich, Matthew Evans, Tony Marshall and Bernard Lloyd will discuss Australia’s culinary heritage.

Incorporating the 2014 Kenneth Binns Lecture and held in association with The Brassey Hotel Canberra and Eden Road Wines, the event will take place on Saturday, 13 September from 2.00pm in the Theatre at the National Library of Australia in Parkes, ACT. Ticket cost is $20 and bookings are essential. For more information or to book your ticket, visit the web site. To view the National Library's digitised copy of the The English and Australian Cookery Book, click here. 

Title page of Australia's first cookery book
Title page of Australia's first cookery book, image courtesy National Library of Australia

Image from Australia's first cookery book, reproduced courtesy NLA
On Roasting (page image reproduced courtesy National Library of Australia (Trove)

The panel...

Food historian and writer, Barbara Santich
Professor Emeritus Barbara Santich

Gourmet farmer and food writer, Matthew Evans
Chef, food critic, cookbook author and Gourmet Farmer, Matthew Evans

Tony Marshall
Food historian Tony Marshall

Tell me dear readers, are you fascinated by food history? Do you collect cookery books as I do? What's your most treasured title?
Janine Thom
1/9/2014 10:49:43 pm

Hi Tony, I'm still at Burnie Linc/Library. Picked up a 1930 Stowport Cookery Book at an op shop. Love all the advertisements in it of shops around Bunie. Lovely old recipes, Calf's Feet Stewed, but the household hints are good too, even a remedy for sea sickness

Lizzy
4/9/2014 04:53:29 pm

Hi Janine, I will try and pass your message to Tony. All the best.

Tony M
13/9/2014 01:16:05 pm

It's good to hear from you, Janine! The event at the National Library (at which I met Bizzy Lizzie) was a great success and lots of fun. I'm sure Lizzie will report on it.

Lizzy
16/9/2014 06:48:46 am

Tony, thank you so much for popping in to comment, and thank you also for a fascinating discussion! I will send Janine's email to you.

Francesca link
2/9/2014 01:22:58 pm

I am fascinated by historical cookbooks and have been meaning to peruse the collection at the State Library of Victoria for some time. This will be a very informative and amusing event- wish I could attend!

Lizzy
4/9/2014 04:55:15 pm

Hi Francesca, that collection would be wonderful, methinks! Yes, I think this event will be really interesting. Great lineup of speakers.

Maureen link
2/9/2014 02:11:16 pm

My favourite cookbook is my mother's cookbook of Maine recipes. She loved that book and a lot of my childhood dinners were cooked from it.

Lizzy
4/9/2014 04:55:36 pm

How fabulous Maureen, you must treasure that book, no?

Adri link
2/9/2014 02:19:02 pm

I love the old books. My collection goes as far back as Apicius and to Bartolomeo Scappi. And there is Pellegrino Artusi. Of course, Mrs. Beeton. Plus The White House Cookbook. Which one is my absolute treasure? That's too hard! I love them all. This sounds like quite a wonderful experience. Thanks so much for sharing. One question "...the upper ten thousand" Is that like the 1% or does that refer to some tract of land?

Lizzy
4/9/2014 04:57:34 pm

Oh wow Adri, your collection sounds amazing!!! In reference to the Upper Ten Thousand, I am not sure, but will try to find out!

Tony M
13/9/2014 01:13:39 pm

The "Upper Ten Thousand" was a way of referring to the upper class - the important people. It was a term used in America and England, and even in Australia.

Lizzy
16/9/2014 06:49:11 am

Tony, thank you, I thought so, but it's great to have that confirmed by an expert! : )

John @ Kitchen Riffs link
2/9/2014 02:50:42 pm

What a fun event! I love old books of any kind, but particularly cookbooks. You can learn so much from them!

Lizzy
4/9/2014 04:57:54 pm

So true, John!!

InTolerant Chef link
2/9/2014 10:26:00 pm

This does sound fascinating indeed Lizzy! I have quite a few recipe booklets that belonged to my great grandmother, and I love seeing how food has changed over the generations x

Lizzy
4/9/2014 04:58:19 pm

It will be a fascinating event, I think Bec... let me know if you are going along! It'd be fun.

Fairlie link
5/9/2014 02:29:46 pm

For a previous blog project I was involved in, I did quite a bit of research into early Australian cook books and domestic manuals. One of my favourites is from 1915 - Lady Hackett's 'The Australian Household Guide'. It was reprinted in 1940 as "Lady Hackett's Household Guide' and I'm lucky to have a copy of that one. Books like these and yours are fascinating snapshots of Australian life over the years!

Lois @ Polish Housewife link
7/9/2014 10:36:38 pm

What a great event! My favorite old cookbook is a modern translation of old Polish recipes that suggest a new bride needs to learn to supervise the staff as well as cook. lol

Elizabeth link
8/9/2014 12:59:29 pm

What a fantastic even, Thanks for sharing!
Liz x

Fiona @TIFFIN bite sized food adventures link
9/9/2014 10:03:52 pm

A lovely piece Old cookbooks always turn up interesting and amusing insights. Liz - it's on this weekend. Are you excited? Do you think there will be wombat canapes? Let me know!


Comments are closed.

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    Photo of Liz Posmyk, Food Writer, Cook and Traveller

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