Of the many cookbooks that have crossed my desk over the years, I think the ones that capture my interest most are those with an exotic flavour. Pomme Larmoyer's Istanbul Cult Recipes, being one of the latest. The author is a food writer, editor and traveller, who believes you can learn everything you need to know about a country from its kitchens. "One thing to remember when exploring [a] city's food culture is that almost every dish has its own neighbourhood, and a best address at which to enjoy it," she writes in the preface. Part travel guide, part cookbook, Istanbul Cult Recipes celebrates the ancient and captivating city, with its unique situation between Europe and Asia; and its ever-popular cuisine. Readers will discover how Istanbul's long-standing love affair with food is reflected in the delicacies on offer at all hours of the day and night. The author leads us through her favourite streets of the city, each pulsing with restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling their version of dishes beloved throughout Turkey. From addictive street food to elegant and contemporary restaurant cuisine, and fresh, healthy dishes cooked in homes across the country. The recipes in the book mirror this diversity. There are lively Turkish breakfasts; delectable plates of meze and fish; an abundance of soups, meats and rice; breads and kebabs sold from the city's food carts; and heavenly sweets such as baklava, helva and Turkish delight. Standout recipes include scrambled eggs with vegetables known as menemen (a dish that is reminiscent of the Hungarian fried bell peppers and tomatoes with eggs). Another is a chopped salad with walnuts (gavurdagi salatasi) "made from ingredients typical of Turkish cuisine: tomatoes, long capsicums, walnuts, spring onions, lemon, and olive oil". Braised celery (zeytinyagli kereviz) is another simple dish that can be served with meat and rice, but is also good as a stand alone vegetarian meal. Cold ayran, the traditional salted yoghurt drink, is also featured; along with sahlep, the hot, thick milk beverage made with wild orchid powder. Both are personal favourites. I have also flagged the shortbreads (kurabiye) and the rice pudding (sutlac). Chicken pilav (pictured above) was the first to catch my eye as I thumbed through the book, and I have already made this dish, twice. The recipe appears below, with the kind permission of Murdoch Books. CHICKEN PILAV Içli pilav According to the author, ‘içli’ in this dish’s name refers to the inside – traditionally the chicken is stuffed with the rice. Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: about 2 hours Serves 4 30 g (1 oz) butter 1 free-range whole chicken, about 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 2 onions, finely diced 360 g (123/4 oz/12/3 cups) medium-grain rice 1 generous tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 generous tablespoon ground allspice 100 g (31/2 oz/2/3 cup) pine nuts 100 g (31/2 oz/2/3 cup) currants 1 large handful dill, finely chopped Melt the butter in a large flameproof casserole (large enough to hold the chicken easily) over medium heat. Add the chicken, and brown on all sides for about 10 minutes until the skin has taken on a good colour. Pour in 200 ml (7 fl oz) water, cover the casserole and cook the chicken for about 11/2 hours (more or less, depending on its size). Set the chicken aside to keep warm, and reserve the liquid for cooking the rice. Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan over medium–high heat. Add the onions and sauté for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the rice, cinnamon, allspice, pine nuts and currants, and season with salt. Cook, stirring, for a further 5 minutes over medium heat. Add enough water to the reserved chicken broth to make 750 ml (26 fl oz/3 cups). Pour over the rice, cover and continue cooking for about 15 minutes until the rice has absorbed nearly all the liquid. Remove the saucepan from the heat, keep covered and leave the rice to finish swelling, undisturbed, for a further 10 minutes. Sprinkle the dill over the pilav just before serving with the warm chicken. Istanbul: Cult Recipes by Pomme Larmoyer, $49.99, Murdoch Books. The recipe and images in this review appear courtesy of the publisher, Murdoch Books. Thank you kindly to the publicity team at Murdoch for giving me the opportunity to review this title. Tell me dear readers, do you enjoy Turkish cuisine? Have you travelled to Istanbul? What's your favourite dish?
11 Comments
25/2/2017 08:52:15 am
I have not eaten a lot of Turkish food, though I like the flavor combo of cinnamon, allspice and currants in this recipe. I too love cookbooks that invite me to expand my culinary world. :)
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Lizzy
25/2/2017 05:06:11 pm
It's a lovely dish, Judy. Thanks so much for stopping by xx
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Lizzy
25/2/2017 05:05:47 pm
Hi David, I think you could indeed make this with thighs. Ooh, do tell me what Iman Bayeldi is!
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Eha
25/2/2017 06:45:11 pm
Liz: now you present yet another book I just have to buy :) ! [Oh my poor purse!!!] Of all styles of world-wide cooking methinks I love the area of the Middle-East most . . . nought is overdone or strange: look at how simple your chicken recipe really is - but there is so much taste and culinary excitement in the dishes. No doubt having been made more so by people like Rick Stein, Rachel Khoo and Shane Delia. A judicious use of spices which should not be too much for any palate. Well, when I get around to holding the volume in my hands mezze and street-food recipes will be the first devoured :) !
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25/2/2017 07:17:08 pm
Iman Bayeldi is stuffed eggplants. We quite like this version: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/oct/10/aubergine-recipes-turkish-imam-bayildi-hungkar-begendi-roast-with-tarator-yotam-ottolenghi
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25/2/2017 09:07:00 pm
I've never been to Istanbul. I would be most interested in the helva recipe to see how it differs from the halva recipe I make.
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26/2/2017 10:28:54 am
Sounds like a neat book! Thanks for the intro -- I haven't heard of it. Haven't heard of this dish, either -- it looks really good. Free range chicken still has some flavor to it, thank goodness -- perfect choice for this dish.
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Cooking and writing have been a lifelong passion. Join me as I share with you my favourite recipes; postcards and morsels from my travels; conversations with cookery writers and chefs; and news on food, cookbooks and cooking. - Liz Posmyk
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NB: I use Australian standard measuring cups and spoons in my recipes.
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