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Favourite flavours - aubergine or eggplant

19/3/2013

 
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'I could not exist for more than a few days without cooking some eggplant,. And yet for many cooks this is one of the most mysterious of vegetables.'
                                                                                                                             - Stephanie Alexander, The Cook's Companion

Eggplants are in abundant supply at farmer's markets and greengrocers, hence they have centre stage on my kitchen bench at present.  I am particularly taken with the heirloom varieties, such as the Rosa bianca, which I've been buying direct from a grower.  Stephanie Alexander reminds us of the versatility of eggplants, both in terms of size (from the tiny Thai eggplant through to the larger ones almost the 'size of a butternut pumpkin') and in the way they can be prepared.  Eggplant can be fried, battered, au gratin, grilled, stuffed. stewed, pureed, mashed or baked. In The Cook's Companion, Ms Alexander offers a classic recipe for smoky eggplant puree, preferably cooked over a camp fire, she says. The flavoursome puree is perfect as the base for baba ghanoush.

In Seasonal, Stefano Manfredi writes that Italians like to 'pickle eggplant in long strips, keeping them a little crunchy.'  He recommends pairing them with tomatoes, zucchini, capsicum, onion, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, yoghurt, lamb, haloumi and parmesan, among other diverse ingredients. In his recipe for eggplant baked with tomato, parmesan and oregano, Manfredi cuts the eggplant lengthwise into a fan shape, leaving the top of the stem intact, then brushes it with olive oil and slips slices of tomato in between the sliced 'leaves' of the eggplant. Sprinkle with parmesan and baked for 25 minutes until tender in a 190 degree C oven. 

I've been experimenting with a number of eggplant dishes over the last two weeks, including versions of a Middle Eastern classic of sliced, roasted eggplant served with yoghurt, saffron and pomegranate by both Yotam Ottolenghi and Claudia Roden.  I will share with you my take on the recipe as soon as I have 'nailed the flavours' and once locally grown pomegranates are more readily available.  In the meantime, you might enjoy my eggplant stack or chargrilled eggplant with tomato, basil and garlic.

'Favourite flavours' is a fresh, new segment that will feature regularly on Good Things.  It gives me the opportunity to further share with you my love of seasonal produce, but I'd also like this to be your opportunity to tell me about your favourite flavours and what good things you're cooking with.  You're also invited to share a recipe if you'd like to do so. So please pop in and visit.
giulia link
18/3/2013 10:36:24 pm

i am a big fan of aubergines although had never heard of baba ghanouj until this weekend! i will have to try that recipe and these other ideas you have proposed!

Lizzy
18/3/2013 11:03:06 pm

Hello there Guilia (who works with Lauren) ; D Good to hear from you. Baba ghanoush is divine!

Maureen link
19/3/2013 03:57:46 am

I've been saying for days that I want to make Moroccan eggplant jam and here you are with a reminder to smack me on the bum and tell me to get in the kitchen. :)

John wants baba ghanoush so I have my work planned.

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:24:05 pm

Oh now that Moroccan eggplant Jame sounds dandy, Maureen. Will you post the recipe please?

celia link
19/3/2013 08:40:48 am

Lizzy, I adore eggplants, and they're one veg which seems to grow really well in our backyard! We've been using them almost daily for the last few weeks! I must dig out my copy of Seasonal and check out Stefano's recipes, thank you! xx

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:24:59 pm

Celia, I am in awe of your garden. I've decided I am going to grow eggplants next season, despite the fact that Peter isn't keen on them. I am! Seasonal is a gorgeous book, I picked it up at the last Lifeline Book Fair!

Eha
19/3/2013 03:48:20 pm

Love eggplant! Could just about live on it and baba ghanoush has been doled out to endless visitors - what a lovely recipe and shopping is but a few days away . . . thanks :) !

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:25:23 pm

Baba ghanoush is soo yummy, isn't it!

Laura (Tutti Dolci) link
19/3/2013 05:16:44 pm

I love eggplant as well, looking forward to your recipes!

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:25:48 pm

Thanks Laura, I've been watching the desserts in your pages with interest too!

GourmetGetaways link
19/3/2013 05:51:13 pm

What a gorgeous eggplant image!! I have never seen a stripey eggplant before :0

In my garden at the moment I have the lebanese eggplants growing (smaller thin ones) I will be trying out some of your recipes for something new :)

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:26:21 pm

Thanks so much! Exotic looking aren't they! Oooh. I like the sound of your smaller Lebanese eggplant!

Jane @ Shady Baker link
19/3/2013 10:30:26 pm

Hi Lizzy, I am growing the stripy eggplant and it is so pretty to look at! Unfortunately I have little grubs burrowing into the eggplant obviously enjoying the soft flesh too. Anyway, working with the bugs is part of gardening I guess?

I find eggplant very versatile in dishes such as stews and slow cooked meals. It adds a delicious flavour and thickens the dish as it softens. Your recipes and suggestions sound delicious as always :) I like the new look of your site too...if I haven't already said so!

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:27:14 pm

Clearly those little bugs have very good taste, Jane, if they're eating your eggplant! Thank you for your kind words too.

Karen (Back Road Journal) link
20/3/2013 06:48:30 am

I plant eggplants in my garden each year and have made several of your suggestions. Cooking the eggplants on the grill for baba ghanoush is one of my favorites...I enjoy the smoky flavor it gives to the dish.

Lizzy
22/3/2013 08:41:31 pm

Oh, how wonderful! Now I am really inspired to plant aubergines in the next season!

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
20/3/2013 10:35:16 pm

I'm a huge eggplant lover here. There's something about the texture that is so creamy. I think my favourite dish is nasu dengaku, the Japanese way :)

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:27:34 pm

Ah, nasu dengaku, must investigate that one!

Amanda link
21/3/2013 11:09:10 am

I love eggplants too Lizzy, but I just can't sell them to the kids. I suspect it is the texture that bothers them - fussy buggers that they are.

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:28:21 pm

They'll grow into eating them, Amanda. When I was tasting the dishes I've been experimenting with, I was reminded of the flavour of creamed spinach that my mum used to make. I would gag when trying to eat it. I do like it now, though.

Anna @ The Littlest Anchovy link
21/3/2013 12:23:57 pm

Ooh I want to make your char-grilled eggplant dish! I am also waiting with baited breath for your Ottolenghi inspired dish. Ooh you have inspired me lovely Lizzie!!

Lizzy
21/3/2013 08:28:44 pm

Thank you Anna! We can thank Mr Yotam for this inspiration, no?! ; )

Mrs Mulberry link
22/3/2013 12:13:02 pm

Luuurrve eggplants Lizzy!! I've been addicted to them this summer and experimenting with lots of new Greek recipes, which I hope to share soon. Can't wait to see your eggplant and pomegranate recipes!!

Lizzy
22/3/2013 08:42:00 pm

Yummy, Mrs M! I am looking forward to seeing your Greek recipes!

azita link
22/3/2013 01:05:23 pm

Ooh, love eggplants as well. The Italian crunchy eggplant pickles sounds very interesting. In Persian cooking, we use eggplants every which way - which is alright with me! Look forward to your recipes.

Lizzy
22/3/2013 08:42:20 pm

Can I please come to dinner at your place soon? ; )

Debra link
22/3/2013 05:10:24 pm

Having a Moroccan cooking class at my place on Monday evening. One of the recipes is Babaganush (spelt this way by the guest chef presenter). Look forward to comparing after the class. DC

Lizzy
22/3/2013 08:42:47 pm

Oh Debra, how wonderful! Please share the outcomes of the cookery class!

Debra link
22/3/2013 09:39:02 pm

Hi Lizzy, would be pleased to share ... thanks for the response. I so enjoy your blogs and tweets.

DC

Lizzy
29/3/2013 07:21:19 pm

Thanks so much, Debra.

Debra link
28/3/2013 10:41:04 pm

I promised I would share what our guest chef at Plough Creek Cooking School did with aubergines. WELL .... I have to say I love aubergines and always have. I have a plethora of recipes, but magic happened. He simply put 6 big bulbs on the bar b que and he let them burn until the skin exploded. Then he peeled the skin off and the flesh tasted like eggplant custard. No dressing, seasoning or oil just on the char grill. I have never tasted the flesh so silky. Then he knife chopped the flesh into a mash and added it to a tahini mix he had made up. The end result was a babaganush like I have never tasted before ! Oh my, it was so delicious. It was how his mother taught him to cook it ! WOW - I am not sure if I can replicate but will be trying it again tomorrow.

Deb

Lizzy
29/3/2013 05:26:07 am

Oh now that sounds absolutely marvellous! I have some aubergines in the fridge and already had plans to light the BBQ at the weekend.... so now I'm going to try this.... oh, it sounds so goooooooood! Thanks Debra for sharing. Would love to come see your school one day!

Gabriella
15/4/2013 10:34:32 am

My mouth watered the whole time I read this. I LOVE eggplant & it was a big feature in my childhood meals. I come from a Greek family so we had an array off different dishes like moussaka, baba ghanoush, baked eggplants...it was all delish!


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