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Huskisson, Jervis Bay and the Shoalhaven Foodie Trail - Eat, Stay, Play

3/11/2017

51 Comments

 
Vista from White Sands Park, Husskisson - Liz Posmyk Good Things
It was with a great deal of excitement that I said "YES, please", when the folks at Shoalhaven Tourism extended an invitation to experience the Shoalhaven Foodie Trail. 

With the offer of a specially-tailored adventure, I mentioned that I was keen to visit Jervis Bay.  Actually, it was the area's coastline that I had been longing to see.

In the 90s, I worked with the PR team at the Australian Nature Conservation Agency, and one of the highlights of my job was editing the organisation's publications before they went to print. I can remember marvelling at the brochure about Jervis Bay and Booderee National Park...  especially the magnificent beaches with their pure-white sand and crystal-clear water. Wow!

Shoalhaven Tourism kindly granted my wish and advised that we'd be based at Huskisson in the heart of Jervis Bay. I could barely wait. I had read about the township, and knew of its history as a fishing port and centre for wooden shipbuilding, but had no idea what to expect...  particularly as images from our trip to Whitby, Scarborough and Robin Hood's Bay were still fresh in my mind.
A scenic drive on the Princes Highway to the Shoalhaven - Liz Posmyk Good Things
The seaside town of Ulladulla was the first stop on our Foodie Trail, so we travelled from Canberra via the Kings Highway across Clyde Mountain, then headed north on the Princes Highway. It's a scenic drive, with the landscape shifting from rural villages to dense woodlands, temperate rainforest to coastal ranges and undulating grasslands dotted with dairy cows and farms.
Dining at Native, Ulladulla, NSW Shoalhaven - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Lunch at Native Cafe, overlooking the harbour in Ulladulla
We arrived in Ulladulla in time for lunch, but first stopped by the Visitor Information Centre to grab a map and a handful of brochures. Peter was hoping to poke his head into a couple of the surf shops, but the rumbling sound coming from my belly told me it was time for nourishment. "Shopping can wait," I suggested, gently.

Native Cafe (pictured above) is perched on a plaza overlooking the harbour at Ulladulla. Its menu lists a selection of healthy and wholesome dishes. As a little bird looked on from the balustrade, I tucked into a salad bowl piled with sumptuous slow-cooked lamb, quinoa, roasted pumpkin and baby beets, and finished with currants and pomegranate dressing. It was very good.
Boats on the harbour at Ulladulla NSW - Liz Posmyk Good Things
The Ulladulla Harbour is popular with fishermen and boaters
After satisfying my hunger, and Peter's whim to visit a few of the stores, we strolled down to the wharf and back, stopping to admire numerous fishing and pleasure boats, and the vibrantly-coloured native flora lining the footpaths. And then it was time to get back on the road.
Bottle brush in flower - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Native flora in the coastal town of Ulladulla - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Ride on car at the children's playground at Huskisson
And then it was time to get back on the road...
It was mid-afternoon when we arrived in Huskisson, with the GPS guiding us direct to the centre of town. We parked by the wharf and stepped out briefly to have a look around. Oh, my word! Huskisson is completely charming. Our kind of place. Why in heaven's name had it taken us so long to visit?! (Yep, I'm using multiple exclamation marks here...  for good reason). 
Huskisson in the heart of Jervis Bay - Shoalhaven Tourism
"Completely charming" Huskisson in the heart of Jervis Bay (image supplied by Shoalhaven Tourism)
Studio 26 Huskisson NSW - Liz Posmyk Good Things
The peaceful sanctuary of Studio 26 Huskisson
Checking in to our accommodation at Studio 26 Huskisson brought yet another pleasant surprise. We had very much liked the look of the property on Stayz, but you can never quite tell what a place is like from photographs online. In fact, Studio 26 is modern, comfortable and (ultra) clean...  with a delicious king-sized bed, crisp hotel-quality linen, and furnishings in harmonious colours that lend themselves to the ambience of a cosy beachside cottage. The studio is tucked into the back garden of a house at the quiet end of Owen Street. It's a tranquil setting, with abundant greenery and birdlife, meaning that we would sleep peacefully and awake to the sound of birdsong. Blissful, no?
Bird-of-Paradise-or-Strelitzia - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Studio 26 Huskisson - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Crisp hotel-quality linen, a king-sized bed and harmonious surrounds at Studio 26
Dining at Wild Ginger, Huskisson - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
South East Asian cuisine at wildginger in Huskisson
My curiosity piqued when I read that Kierrin McKnight, chef/owner of wildginger, had worked for David Thompson at the much-lauded Darley Street Thai and "2-hatted" Sailors Thai Restaurant in Sydney during the 90s. Chef Kierrin's philosophy at wildginger is to use the freshest local produce to create a blend of cultural dishes from South East Asia.

For dinner, we enjoyed a flavourful banquet (pictured above) featuring entrees of crisp pork belly on betel leaf with almonds and chilli jam (His); and smoked trout with Thai basil mayonnaise with trout roe on betel leaf (Hers). For mains, steamed ocean perch with yellow curry and rice (Hers) and free-range chicken pieces with a spicy green curry, holy basil and rice (His). For dessert, we shared a sublime coconut panna cotta with poached pear, toasted hazelnuts and a slice of frozen pine-splice. 
Breakfast at 5 Little Pigs, Huskisson - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
A nourishing breakfast at 5 Little Pigs in Huskisson
After a restful night's sleep, we walked to 5 Little Pigs cafe for breakfast. In the photo bottom right of the collage (above), you'll see the hands of "Himself" (a.k.a. Saint Peter), waiting patiently while I took a snapshot of his breakfast. A moment later, he dived in to the beautifully-presented bowl of porridge topped with caramelised figs, honeycomb, a dollop of cream and micro herbs. It was as tasty as it looked. Meanwhile, I could barely get through my giant-sized serving of Bircher muesli (top right).
Bamboo fibre shorts, monocular sunhat and sunglasses - Liz PosmykShopping in Huskisson: a handful of great finds
Post-breakfast, we walked the length and breadth of the main street and surrounds, browsing in each of the specialty stores along the way. Peter chatted about monoculars with Nature Lodge Optics shop owner, Danny, a  fellow Englishman; while I bought myself a straw hat and some funky handmade wooden sunnies. At Jay on the Bay, Peter treated himself to a pair of super-comfy bamboo fibre shorts. Colourful bamboo kitchenware, and the fun wooden clothing rack with thongs (hanging on the wall of the change room), caught my eye.

Shopping at Huskisson - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Snapshots from our shopping expedition in Owen Street, Huskisson
​Afterwards, we followed our noses to the exquisite aromas wafting from the doorway of Fudge Addiction. There we met owner, Di, who was cooking a batch of creamy salted caramel fudge. After sampling a few of her fudge varieties, we bought a selection as a gift for my son.
The Huskisson Pool shot from above
The 50-metre Sea Pool at Huskisson (photo supplied by Shoalhaven Tourism)
Bellies full, we took the long way back to Studio 26, walking briskly to the top end of Owen Street, up around White Sands Park, along the path leading down to the Sea Pool (above) and Voyager Memorial Park, past the wharves and playground overlooking Currambene Creek. The 50-metre Sea Pool, which is in a spectacular spot overlooking the Bay, was closed and will reopen for the swimming season on 5 November. Lap-swimming in the Sea Pool is on the must-do list for next time.
Children's playground Huskisson NSW - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Playground near Voyager Memorial Park
Clivias - Liz Posmyk Good Things
We sat for a while on the front deck back at the Studio, admiring the garden and flipping through the Shoalhaven visitor guide and a pile of Coast Style​ magazines. "I believe we've found the perfect coastal holiday destination here in Huskisson," Peter said with a grin. "I believe you might be right," I nodded in agreement. Just quietly, I was already planning our next visit. 
Fish and chips with salad at Portside Cafe on the waterfront at Huskisson - Liz Posmyk
Freshly cooked fish and chips, served with a view
The morning had somehow slipped by and we were ready for more grazing. We headed back to the wharf to Portside Cafe, for some freshly-cooked fish and chips served with a spectacular view. I can still taste that crisp, light batter and the sumptuous flesh of the fish. And lordy, that vista! 
Elizabeth Abood, Office Manager, Jervis Bay Wild with Ernie Musgrove - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Elizabeth Abood and Ernie Musgrove from Jervis Bay Wild
At Portside, we met Elizabeth Abood and Ernie Musgrove, from Jervis Bay Wild, a company that offers dolphin and whale eco tours daily throughout the season. Ernie and Elizabeth told us about "Port Venture", Jervis Bay Wild's boom netting boat, which gives punters the opportunity to experience pods of dolphins in a most unique fashion. Another on the list for next time.
Jervis Bay Wild - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Jervis Bay Wild cruises depart the terminal daily
The temperature had hit 30 degrees C plus and the ​pièce de résistance of our trip beckoned. As I wriggled into my swimsuit, I was beyond excited at the thought that I was actually about to set foot onto the world-famous white sands of Hyams Beach and, maybe, dip my toes into the calm, clear water. Eeek!
The white sands and clear water at Hyams Beach - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Footprints in the pure white sand
We spent three hours or so simply basking in the pleasure of the beach. Sunbathing, lolling about in the gentle "waves", and running our fingers and toes through the powdery sand over and over again.

Let me tell you, the beaches at Jervis Bay are more beautiful than I had imagined. The water is turquoise-coloured and as clear as glass; and the sand is finer and whiter than any photograph could possibly depict. That afternoon on Hyams Beach was just like a holiday within a holiday.

Feeling refreshed after our swim, and having showered and dressed for dinner, we were ready to eat. Just as the sun was beginning to set, we walked to Kanpai Japanese restaurant via White Sands Park. 
Sunset at Huskisson - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Looking to Point Perpendicular from White Sands Park at sunset
Dining at Kanpai Japanese, Huskissin - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
A Japanese banquet at Kanpai
At Kanpai, acclaimed Japanese-born chef, Yoshi Tanimo, presents an innovative menu featuring Japanese dishes with a contemporary twist. For dinner, we sampled a range of dishes, including steamed soy beans with seven spice and sea salt; melt-in-the-mouth fresh sashimi; crisp and flavoursome duck spring rolls; and tender teriyaki eye fillet with seasonal greens. This was washed down with Asahi beer, and finished with a bowl of creamy matcha ice cream (perfectly small, at my request). Portions are generous, so wear a loose-fitting number...  and go with an appetite.
Breakfast at Pilgrims Cafe, Huskisson - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Refueling with breakfast at Pilgrims overlooking the bay
For breakfast the following morning, we shared a stack of pancakes piled with bananas, organic maple syrup, ricotta and cinnamon at Pilgrims vegetarian/vegan cafe overlooking the wharf. ​​

By now you're probably thinking: "How can they still be hungry?" Or perhaps: "I hope she packed her stretchy pants". Actually, I did, and it was just as well. Time for another long, long walk by the water's edge after breakfast, lunch AND dinner.
Lunch at Nutmeg, Huskisson - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Funky food for lunch at Nutmeg Cafe
Nutmeg Cafe in Huskisson makes a cracker of an open-faced steak sandwich (above). Tender Scotch fillet cooked perfectly, served on toasted Turkish bread slathered with butter, a side of fresh greens and lightly roasted tomato. Peter mirrored my words about his burger and fries.
Sunset at Huskisson NSW - Liz Posmyk Good Things
Watching the sun set at Shark Net Beach
Dining at The Huskisson Hotel - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Great pub food at The Husky
There are numerous eateries in Huskisson that we hadn't yet tried, one of them being The Huskisson Hotel (above), renowned for serving great pub food. Peter chose pizza, while I tucked in to a (huge!) serving of slow-cooked lamb with mash. You'll note there were no complaints from either of us.
Breakfast at the Huskisson Bakery - Liz Posmyk, Good Things
Delicious offerings at the Huskisson Bakery
Our final stop was the Huskisson Bakery for breakfast, where we enjoyed coffee, and an awesome bacon and egg roll. We also grabbed a loaf of freshly baked bread, and a fruit cake for Peter's elderly mam, Joan, who lives in Warilla and travelled back to Canberra with us for a short break.

During our stay, we enjoyed many of the good things that Huskisson has on offer; but there's so much more we'd like to see and do, that we're already planning a second (longer) stay. Just recapping the highlights of our visit:
​
  • ​Lunch at Native*, Ulladulla
  • Accommodation at Studio 26* Huskisson
  • Sunset walks along Shark Net Beach, Huskisson
  • Dinner at Wild Ginger*, Huskisson
  • Breakfast at 5 Little Pigs*, Huskisson
  • Shopping (a.k.a. retail therapy) in Huskisson
  • Lunch at Portside Cafe*, Huskisson Wharf
  • White Sands Walk from Greenfield Beach to Hyams Beach and back
  • Swimming and sunbathing at Hyams Beach 
  • Dinner at Kanpai Japanese*, Huskisson
  • Breakfast at Pilgrims Cafe*, Huskisson
  • Lunch at Nutmeg, Huskisson
  • Dinner at The Huskisson Hotel
  • Accommodation at Huskisson Beach Hotel
  • Breakfast at Huskisson Bakery*​

The list of stuff we plan to see and do on our next Jervis Bay adventure:


  • A boom net dolphin eco cruise on Port Venture (the ultimate expedition)
  • The Huskisson Pictures (a movie theatre in an old community hall)
  • Visit the Jervis Bay Maritime Museum
  • Dine at The Gunyah tree-top restaurant and paperbark camp
  • Eat breakfast at Hyams Beach Store + Cafe
  • See Booderee National Park
  • Stand up paddle boarding
  • Cruise on the Husky Ferry
  • Swim in the Sea Pool at Huskisson
  • Enjoy a meal at Gringos Mexican Restaurant and/or the House of Guangzhou on the foreshore

​​ Love the sound of all this? Pop into the Shoalhaven Tourism website and plan your itinerary.

Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post. The Good Things team enjoyed a two-night adventure* (meals included) in the Huskisson district thanks to the generosity of Shoalhaven Tourism and its associates. At our own expense, we stayed a third night and covered the cost of breakfast, lunch and dinner. All photographs are my own, unless noted otherwise. 

Thank you for taking the time to read this lengthy missive, dear readers. I know it's loaded with images and words, but there was so much to show and tell.

Now, tell me, have you been to the Shoalhaven district? Does it look and sound like a destination you'd love to visit sometime?
51 Comments
Peter B
3/11/2017 01:39:23 am

Gee we had a wonderful time, and you've captured it all so well, Lizzy. Love ya work and a big thank you to Shoalhaven Tourism.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 05:59:45 pm

Thank you xo

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Sue B
3/11/2017 01:40:41 am

Most go to Huskisson again. Love the article and all your photos.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:00:22 pm

Thanks Sue, definitely one for after your birthday celebrations in WA.

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Colin link
3/11/2017 02:36:40 am

As usual, you've whetted my appetite with your fabulous photos and lovely descriptions - must get down there soon!

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:00:56 pm

Thank you so much for your kind words, Colin. Humbled.

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Bob Bennett
3/11/2017 02:44:03 am

Bloody beauty Lizzie.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:01:21 pm

Thank you, Bob. I know you love this part of the world.

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John / Kitchen Riffs link
3/11/2017 09:37:16 am

What a fun adventure! Lovely pictures and terrific read. You've definitely whetted my appetite for this gorgeous place!

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:01:46 pm

John, thank you! Come visit!!

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Sheila Bowness
3/11/2017 11:16:59 am

What a beautiful place so envious !

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:02:31 pm

Dear Aunt Sheila... Peter and I so wish that you and his uncle Norman could come. We take you here for sure! xo

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Simone Mason
3/11/2017 04:03:21 pm

Hi Lizzie, I followed your trip on your FB page and insta. Looks so nice. I did have a holiday or two in this part of the coast and would love to go back. Thanks for the reminder. Speccy photos.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:03:09 pm

Awww, thank you! I can highly recommend Studio 26, and all the other venues.

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Suzanne Barnes
3/11/2017 05:28:18 pm

I’ve been lucky enough to travel all over the world, but Jervis Bay is absolutely my favourite holiday destination - particularly with my children. Your post has whetted my appetite for another trip (particularly to the Husky bakery)!

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:03:39 pm

Hi Suzanne, thank you so much!

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Amanda link
3/11/2017 06:51:43 pm

What a gorgeous destination to have so close at hand. I adore those bowls you snapped while on your shopping expedition - I d'm pretty sure one or two of those would have made their way home with me.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:04:19 pm

I loved them too, Amanda. But I'm decluttering, as you know, so I had to be strong. Thanks for your kind words. x

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Eha
3/11/2017 07:51:27 pm

Wonderful sea photos, especially at twilight . . . don't blame you wanting to go back, especially with so many interesting chefs having preceded you, Personally remember two trips Sydney>Melbourne via the Coast Road, when we probably drove thru' Ulladulla at max speed allowed :) ! If I had my druthers, wildginger food looks and sounds very like me . . . hope you and Saint Peter well . . .

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:05:24 pm

Dearest Eha, I think you'd love wildginger. Thank you for your kind words. Are you getting this rain as well?

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Eha
5/11/2017 06:48:02 pm

Are we ? Storms like none for years and worse to come tonight! House opposite struck by lightning before 7am this morning! I'm still shaking :( ! The worst of this monster will go out to seas before it reaches you . . .

Ian Henderson
5/11/2017 01:19:04 am

Often when I'm looking over travel blogs I find there are way too many images. But this was a really good read.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:05:54 pm

Hello Ian, wow, that's very kind of you to say. Thank you.

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Irena
5/11/2017 01:19:46 am

My mouth is watering.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:06:24 pm

Cheers, Irena.

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Chloe Grabham link
5/11/2017 02:09:13 am

I am sold on where our next holiday will be! Absolutely loved this article and feel more informed on places to check out and visit next time I visit. As always thank you for taking me along on the journey with your writing and photographic captures Liz :)

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:07:37 pm

Hi Chloe, thank you so much. And thanks for sharing on social media as well. Greatly appreciated. x

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Jenny
5/11/2017 05:37:26 pm

Hubby and I are back from a week down south too. 2.5 days at Gerroa and 2.5 days at Greenwell Point. We visited Two Figs winery and the hostess there was saying she was from Callala Beach and how beautiful it was - so we stopped there, it was stunning - actually whiter and bluer than Hyams Beach on that day. Lunch at Huskisson Hotel of Eden Mussels, best we have EVER had, fell in love with the place! Highly recommend you visit Greenwell Point for NSW best Fish & Chips at Pelican Rocks, Oysters from any one of the oyster farmers and Pizza from the hotel.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:08:32 pm

Hiya Jenny, hope you're both well. Oh, your trip sounds fab, too! Thank you for the recommendations... definitely on the list. PS we MUST catch up before Christmas!

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Jenny Andersen
5/11/2017 06:44:13 pm

wrong Jenny, sorry Liz - though I'm sure we'd have a great time with you and Peter!

Serina aka Ms Frugal Ears link
5/11/2017 06:45:33 pm

Oh, this looks just fabulous. I had never visited before and now I am super keen.

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Lizzy
5/11/2017 06:46:48 pm

Thanks, Serina, you'll LOVE it!

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Food Lovers Dietitian link
5/11/2017 08:39:53 pm

So many lovely places to eat and be!

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:09:02 pm

Indeed!

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Tandy | Lavender and Lime link
6/11/2017 01:30:40 am

thank you for sharing this amazing adventure. Your photographs are truly amazing and would entice me to visit were I ever in the country.

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:09:22 pm

Thank you so much!

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Krista Bjorn link
6/11/2017 03:53:38 am

It all sounds so peaceful and utterly relaxing and restorative. :-) Beautiful!

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:09:47 pm

Truly is. x

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Elissa link
6/11/2017 06:17:34 am

What a gorgeous part of the world! And the food looks amazing too. Looks like a great trip.

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:10:33 pm

It was indeed! x

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Ron link
6/11/2017 08:01:15 am

As I read, you gave me a sense of being there. With Oldman winter blowing his winds here, this was a delight to read. I find myself wondering which restaurant I’d eat at first Wildginger or Kanpai, but crisp pork belly wins. Thanks for the lovely journey.

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:12:49 pm

Ron, thank you so much for your kind words!

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Daniel & Joanna Payne
7/11/2017 02:22:45 pm

Lizzie, what a fantastic article about Huskisson.
It was a delight to meet you both and we must catch up when we are next in Canberra
Daniel Payne
Nature Lodge Optics

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:11:45 pm

It was a joy to meet you, Danny. Look forward to seeing you again soon!

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Hotly Spiced link
8/11/2017 10:11:30 pm

The image of the turquoise water with the white sand is just stunning. And the aerial shot of the 50-metre pool is amazing. What a fantastic tour of the South Coast! It's clearly a very special part of the world with a lot to offer both in terms of pristine beaches and an excellent foodie scene xx

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:11:00 pm

Thank you, Charlie xx

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Christine Salins link
9/11/2017 09:04:56 pm

Hi Liz, I can't believe I spent all those years in Canberra and never got to Jervis Bay. Will have to make sure it is on my itinerary in the future.

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Lizzy
9/11/2017 09:08:33 pm

Absolutely, Christine. I'm the same... I can't believe it took me so long to get here!

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Beck @ Golden Pudding link
17/11/2017 04:54:06 am

Fabulous sounding trip Liz, and beautifully photographed! I’ve been to Jervis Bay twice I think, and each time been wowed by the beauty of the surroundings - and I don’t think I even got as far as trying the food!
I think Mr GP and I might have to sneakily copy your itinerary when we next get a weekend away :)

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Sharon link
15/7/2018 09:53:55 pm

We are on our way to Jervis Bay as I type and I just saw this! I am now quite excited to be spending the next week there 🤗

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Jenny
15/7/2018 10:54:41 pm

If you like oysters, make sure you go to Greenwell Point, Big Jim's Oysters serve them mornay or Kilpatrick from their door!

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    Photo of Liz Posmyk, Food Writer, Cook and Traveller

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Good Things is written and published by Liz Posmyk © 2011-2020.   All rights reserved.
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Photos used under Creative Commons from alantankenghoe, riptheskull, David Jackmanson, Amani Hasan, SuntanMidori, oropeza, Annie Mole, Vegan Feast Catering, avlxyz, jeffreyw, mockstar, jenly, Syeefa Jay, pizzodisevo (therapy - terapia - Therapie), ginnerobot, cliff1066™, Jim, the Photographer
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