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Ottolenghi inspired chocolate babka with hazelnuts

22/6/2014

 
Chocolate and hazelnut babka a la Lizzy
My father was a truly wise and wonderful man and, together with my mother, taught me and my siblings that 'charity begins at home'. That is, we learned about the mentality of loving kindness (as opposed to the misconstrued belief that you 'should always take care of your loved ones before anyone else in the world'). And this mindset has pretty much stuck with me throughout my life. 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to tell you that I'm some kind of angel and my halo is feeling a little too tight. On the contrary. Thankfully, my father's humanity and wisdom also came with a wicked sense of humour, and I'm pleased to have adopted that fine trait from him too, together with my mother's strength and determination (and absolute love of baking).

Maybe it's the Endone I'm taking after the operation on my broken foot earlier this week, coupled with a few things that have happened over the last few days, but I've been thinking a lot about how my father would approach religious groups that came door knocking in the hope to convert a fallen soul. My non-practising Catholic dad was inevitably mowing the grass, pruning roses or pottering in his garage when such folks arrived in their Sunday best and with their good books in hand. While I'm sure that deep down inside he might have liked to chase them away (vigorously) with a straw broom, his good side saw him suggesting cheekily that if they would take the time to help him finish his work in the garden, he would be very happy to sit with them for a while and hear what they had to say! 

Indeed, had any one of them said yes to his offer, he would have surely sat down and theorised with them, possibly for hours. After my mother's funeral, he discussed his views on the Catechism of the Catholic Church with a rather surprised Father Michael, who had given the service and popped in to the house afterwards to see how we were all getting along. Let me tell you, Father Michael didn't 'win' that discussion by any means. And no, not one of the 'visitors' ever stopped to help out with dad's chores, much to his mirth. 

That's nice, I hear you say, but what is she really waffling on about?

The catalyst for these memories is the increasing number of unsolicited and invasive telephone calls that are coming in to the home phone from politicians, fraudsters and an endless stream of charities. With the political parties, we simply hang up, especially if it's a recorded message. We keep a whistle by the phone for the fraudsters, but first I string them along with my best Greek yia yia impersonation. The charities, now they're an entirely different kettle of fish. 

There are more and more individuals and families in our populace needing help and many of them slip through the cracks, particularly without any government support whatsoever. And I understand that charities are for the most part not propped up by government either, hence why they are leaning on members of the community. As the carer of a family member with a chronic disability, I have seen first hand the excellent work that charities can do and fully appreciate the difference they can make to someone's life. To this end, I donate cash and saleable goods to as many 'causes' as I can possibly manage. I've also donated years of my time to community groups over the decades. So when the telephone rings first thing in the morning, and again in the middle of the day, and then again bang on dinner time on a daily basis, I'm sorry to tell you it annoys me. But, I usually deal with it in a calm and kind manner...  until this week when the phone calls seemed more frequent and, worse still, the same charities followed up by calling again the next day!

Here we are, a middle-aged recently retired couple, coping with the fact that one of us is completely out of action after surgery on a broken foot. The cooking, cleaning, washing and shopping still has to be done, and there are specialist appointments to attend, and injections and pain medications to be administered. It's not that we are being mean or unkind, but now, more than ever, those cold calls from organisations seeking our help are not wanted. Perhaps if the caller opened with a polite 'Hello, I'm calling from XYZ, is now a convenient time?', the recipient would have the chance to respond with a yea or nay. But that never happens. Peter had his ear chewed off this week by a fellow wanting him to commit to going out door knocking for charity. Despite his best efforts, he wasn't able to end the call, so (with shrunken shoulders) he simply agreed. When the fellow called back the next day, heavens only knows why (!!!), I asked Peter to hand me the phone. Don't worry dear readers, I was kind and polite in my manner, if not just a little upset. I pleaded with the man to leave us alone for the moment, and explained why. Hopefully he won't call again, ever.

Afterwards, I thought about how my father might have dealt with these kinds of daily intrusions. He nursed my mother for years before she died. Something tells me he most likely would have installed his usual kindness and good humour, though I'm not altogether sure. For he too donated money and goods to those in need whenever and however he could.

I know I'm not alone with my feelings on this. I took a straw poll of friends and family via social media recently, asking 'Hit me with your thoughts on telephone calls coming in at home from charities and political parties... how do they make you feel?' The many responses came flooding back, in summary: 'Not happy. ANGRY. Very annoyed. Trapped. Intruded upon. Over it. Guilty. Frustrated. Loathe it.' It was made clear that many people donate to charities online; via their local church, school or community group; and to collectors at shopping centres as well, so the telephone calls are deemed particularly invasive. Only one friend said 'I listen to their case and if they are a worthy (probably local) cause I try and contribute'.  Another friend made me smile with her response: 'I say bueno, bueno no hablo ingles.' Good plan. I think from now on I'm going to answer the phone in Hungarian.

Recipe for chocolate babka with hazelnuts...

And now for a more comforting topic. Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi is at the top of my list of favourite cookbooks. I love Ottolenghi recipes and have been cooking my way through the book. The section on Yeasted Cakes is particularly well-thumbed as it reminds me of my Hungarian-Czech mother and her beautiful brioche and other goodies. The Chocolate kranz cakes caught my eye, as they sounded similar to my Kakaós csiga or chocolate snails, only a richer more buttery version. Ottolenghi's recipe uses pecans and I was planning to substitute walnuts until I saw Lorraine's version on Not Quite Nigella with hazelnuts. Having bought a large bag of hazelnuts fresh from the grower at the Orange Farmer's Market, I decided I'd use a handful of hazelnuts too. Here is my adaptation of the recipe from Jerusalem. This quantity makes two delicious cakes, which keep well for days.

CHOCOLATE BABKA WITH HAZELNUTS
For the yeasted cake:
530g plain (AP) flour
100g vanilla infused caster sugar
2 teaspoons dried yeast
finely chopped zest of one lemon
3 large free-range eggs
120ml water
150 unsalted butter, at room temperature, cubed
spray oil for greasing the pan
a little extra flour for dusting
egg wash, for baking

For the chocolate filling:
50g icing sugar, sifted
30g best quality cocoa powder, sifted
130g good quality dark chocolate, melted
120g unsalted butter, melted
100g hazelnuts, chopped

For the syrup (optional, use an egg wash instead):
250g caster sugar
160ml water

Combine the flour, caster sugar, yeast and lemon zest in the bowl of a stand mixer and combine the ingredients with a dough hook on the lowest setting. Add the eggs and water, and keep mixing at medium speed until the dough comes together, about five minutes. Start adding the cubed butter, a little at a time, until it melts through into the dough. Keep mixing on medium speed for about ten minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic. Make sure you scrape down the sides of the bowl during the mixing process so that all the dough comes together into a neat shape.

Next, sprinkle a light dusting of flour over the dough and cover with some cling film or a clean towel. At this stage the original recipe says that the dough should be left in the fridge for half a day or overnight. However, I followed my mother's usual method with yeasted cakes and left the bowl in a warm spot, free of draughts, so that the dough could rise.

Meanwhile, grease two loaf tins with some butter or spray oil and line the base and sides with baking paper. Now, divide the dough into two and set aside to rest again while you make the chocolate filling.

To make the chocolate filling, combine the icing sugar, cocoa powder, melted chocolate and butter in a pyrex bowl and mix to a 'spreadable paste' (per my photographs). Roll out the two individual balls of dough to a 26x30cm rectangle, taking care to ensure that the sides are neat and even. Using a spatula or palette knife, spread half of the prepared filling over each of the two rectangular shapes, leaving a 1-2cm border around the outer edges. Now sprinkle the chopped hazelnuts over the chocolate filling. 

Now with both hands, roll up each rectangle on the long side, which is closest to your body, and finish the roulade at the opposite long end. See my photographs below. You should end up with a delicious long sausage, all nicely rolled up. Trim the last 1cm ends off each roll with a sharp knife. And now for the magic part. Using the same sharp knife, cut each roll into two again, lengthways through the centre (see my photographs). Place two lengths, cut side facing upwards, alongside each other, press them together at the top end and then gently plait them. Again, press the other end together. You will end up with two plaited babkas (see photographs).

Preheat the oven to 190 degrees C. Taking care, transfer each plaited cake into a prepared loaf tin. Cover each one with a clean, damp tea towel and leave in a warm place, free from draughts, to rise, for around one hour. Remove the tea towels, brush each with an egg wash, and bake the babkas for approximately half an hour or until a skewer inserted comes out clean.

As soon as the cakes come out of the oven, you can brush them with the cooled syrup (I opted not to use the syrup, the cakes were perfectly good without it). You'll have no problem devouring these babkas, they are indeed delicious, particularly with good coffee.
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Fresh free range eggs for babka

Yeasted cakes remind me of my Hungarian-Czech mother...

Dough rising for babka

The dough is spread with rich chocolatey goodness...

Spreading chocolate hazelnut topping onto babka

And then plaited...

Plaiting the babka

Ready to bake...

Ready to bake babka

Chocolate hazelnut babka, nagyon finom...

Chocolate hazelnut babka

So tell me dear readers, what are your thoughts on cold telephone calls from political organisations, fraudsters and charities. Do you receive them often? And how do you deal with them?
Fran link
20/6/2014 10:00:06 pm

Ha, Liz, that egg pic looks like a little bum in the reflection! That looks divine, and I feel I must bake it. Having never baked bread or brioche, this will be interesting...

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:25:48 pm

Thanks Fran, this babka is quite outstanding! Happy baking.

SallyBR link
21/6/2014 01:10:11 am

This is a masterpiece! I can imagine the flavors and it must be pure heaven in your mouth...

Great post!

I once made a bread shaped like this one, but I did not do a very good job, should have twisted it tighter. Still tasted great, it had just a type of cinnamon filling. But I should re-visit the technique....

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:26:13 pm

Sally, hi... this is well worth the effort, so very delicious!

Gourmet Getaways link
21/6/2014 03:09:47 am

Argh! Political party calls...Anyway, I could smell the goodness of freshly baked bread. Hazelnuts, yum!

Julie
Gourmet Getaways

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:26:31 pm

Julie, you made me smile... yes, this is yummy!

Laura (Tutti Dolci) link
21/6/2014 07:17:57 am

Gorgeous babka, I love the chocolate hazelnut filling!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:26:42 pm

Ooooooh, me too Laura!

InTolerant Chef link
21/6/2014 12:36:14 pm

Delicious indeed Lizzy, I love Ottolenghi as well!
I try and explain that I already have my nominated charities for the year for the phone calls, but I hate the guys who accost us outside the supermarket when I'm in a hurry.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:27:31 pm

Yes, Bec, we seem to be bombarded... don't get me wrong, I donate more than my fair share, truly I do!

Thank goodness for Ottolenghi!

Maureen link
21/6/2014 01:13:51 pm

It's time all the icky things stop happening to you and you being to enjoy your retirement together. So sorry to hear about the surgery. Ouch!

I hate the phone. My hearing isn't 100% and there's nothing worse than trying to hear someone who's in a boiler room with all the noise in the background trying to tell me why I should contribute. If more than 5-10% actually made it to the charity I might feel better about it. I resent paying for someone to beg me for money.

Your babka would make me happy though!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:28:15 pm

Well that's true Maureen, although perhaps it's volunteers who call. Yes, the babka is fantastic, and thanks for the good wishes! Hope you are well!?

Gary Lum link
21/6/2014 01:51:48 pm

I hope all this yummy food is helping with the healing process :-)

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:28:42 pm

Ha, thanks Gary... this was one I made 'earlier' as in before my break... but thank you for the good wishes!

John @ Kitchen Riffs link
21/6/2014 02:05:25 pm

We always decide at the beginning of each year what charities we'll be giving to, so for us at least, it's easy to tell those callers that we've already budgeted our charitable giving. Anyway, that's a lovely looking babka. Really looks like an interesting recipe -- thanks.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:29:11 pm

Sensible plan, John... I donate more on an ad hoc basis... this is a beautiful babka!

Eha
21/6/2014 04:01:16 pm

First, and most important, hope the surgery was successful and that you are on the slow mend! NOW: I am not a rude person but I have no patience with soliciting phonecalls!!!! I know whom I want to help and have the capacity to help! If I have politely say 'no' once, please leave me alone!!! The phone calls, oft from call centres, always begin : 'Eeha, and how are we today'!! Hmmm: my answer these days being 'This is Mrs Carr and how is my wellbeing important to you?'. No understanding almost 100% from the other side!! The poor call centre telephonists have not been taught how to answer a Q with a Q :) ! I DO hope to make a point, but Thursday last I got the beginning of the same 17 times in one afternoon [Oh, it was meant to be Telstra and, of course, was not!!].

It is sad when almost being rude and hanging up seem to be the only options!!!!!!!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:29:51 pm

Gah, Eha! Those pesky calls... anyhoo, this is a wonderful babka, and thank you for your good wishes. Post op now and healing nicely!

Pamela @ Brooklyn Farm Girl link
21/6/2014 05:00:14 pm

This babka looks amazing.. and with chocolate, even better! Anytime chocolate is added it just turns into a dream for me!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:30:22 pm

Thanks Pamela.... must admit chocolate is kinda dreamy! Thank you for stopping by!

MandyThecCompleteBook link
21/6/2014 10:20:33 pm

Ooo, this would be heavenly with a lovely cup of tea.
Have a wonderful week ahead Lizzy.
:-) Mandy xo

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:30:34 pm

It surely is, Mandy! xox

Glenda link
21/6/2014 10:44:13 pm

Hi Liz. Don't feel bad, I just hang up.... I never donate to telephone callers because they work for collection agencies not the charities. Only a small amount of the money donated actually goes to the charity.
On a more cheery note your cake sure looks flash.
Oh BTW Maus made your bushman's meatloaf the other day. I told her to send you a note to say she had made it but .... what can I say? ... her intentions are good .. back to the meat loaf. It was very nice indeed. I went shopping with Celia in Sydney and bought some black sesame seeds especially for the meat loaf. Hope your foot mends fast.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:31:09 pm

Aw, Maus, good for you! Thanks for that feedback Glenda... glad you liked it... it's been a favourite of mine for decades! xo

Jennifer Milk and Honey link
21/6/2014 11:56:33 pm

I've got this book Liz and have bee eyeing the recipe. I just might give it a go. Yours looks so good. These kind of baked goods remind me of my Mum's best friend Eva who is Hungarian and makes the most divine cakes and pastries.

PS: I just so no thanks and hang up.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:31:32 pm

Oh how lovely that your mum's bestie is Hungarian. We do bake the best stuff!

azita link
22/6/2014 02:37:33 am

What a delicious and superb way for me to get back into catching up with my favorite food blog readings! :)

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:31:44 pm

Hi Azita, welcome back!

Rosa link
22/6/2014 05:19:32 am

Beautiful and ever so tempting!

Cheers,

Rosa

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:31:57 pm

Rosa, thank you kindly.

ela@GrayApron link
22/6/2014 05:36:53 am

Looks fine and divine! Beautiful swirl with this hazelnut/chocolate filling..

ela h.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:32:17 pm

Thanks Ela, it is rather beautiful, isn't it :)

kellie@foodtoglow link
22/6/2014 06:33:19 am

Such a beautiful bread/cake! As for the cold callers, I can't believe there isn't an opt out service to take advantage of. We have something in the UK called the telephone preference service that reputable companies and charities abide by.You fill out something online and a few weeks later you notice a huge drop in calls. This doesn't stop those who say they are doing a 'survey' (yeah right) or from overseas callers, but it does cut down on the vast majority of unsolicited calls. Poor you for sure. My Mum sounds kind of like your Dad. She was a deacon in the Episcopal church (one of the first in the US, ever) and she would always invite religious callers in and have discussions with them. They usually left fairly quickly once they realised the cut of her cloth, so to speak. Us kids were always embarrassed but looking back it was a very good way of dealing with such occurrences. I hope you find a solution. Nobble one of those pesky politicians for a phone preference service! In the meantime, turn up the radio and keep eating cake!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:32:44 pm

Hi Kellie... we have a do not call list, but charities are exempt!

David Scott Allen link
22/6/2014 09:28:52 am

Certainly, I am guilty of checking the Caller ID before picking up, and I hate political callers more than just about anything. Luckily, fraudsters aren't getting through (yet). As for the charities, I think it is important to remember a couple of things - the callers are some of the lowest paid individuals on earth, whether they are students attending the University that is calling, or simply people for whom this is the only job they can get to support their families. It is the WORST job in the world (I have done it) and I am so glad to hear that you are so nice to the callers. We try to be kind, as well, and we give to organizations that are close to our heart (our food bank, our alma mater, or another charity in which we believe). If it is another charity, we simply state that we don't accept solicitations over the phone. They can mail us something and we will consider a donation. If they try to keep talking, we simply say, "Thank you for doing the work you do for the community/state/world, wish they a good evening, say 'good-bye,' and hang up. Oh, and we ask them to remove us from their mailing list! So thank you, on behalf of all fundraiser, for your kindness. Yes, it is annoying but sometimes these young people can be fun to chat with!

So, no on to the real business. OMG - that babka looks amazing! I saw it in the cookbook and am just biding my time...

Hope you and Peter had a good weekend!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:33:16 pm

David, make the babka!

e / dig in hobart link
22/6/2014 11:35:45 am

i tend not to get many calls - i only have a mobile,not a landline, and i do not answer numbers that aren't programmed in. but my parents get a lot. Mum replies to their queries, "no, Mrs G is not in at the moment' - as if she is the maid or hired hlep :-) - and then hangs up. so polite but not continuing the conversation. we have our charities that we support so that makes it easier to. you can't help everyone.
but on to your amazing looking babke - i am imagining you making this while balancing on one leg perhaps, lizzy? i am glad that your poor foot (and the painkillers) are not stopping you from baking beautiful treats like this!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:33:44 pm

Hi there Elizabeth... no, this is one I made earlier, I'm afraid. : )

Manu link
22/6/2014 02:38:16 pm

I get many calls to... but I let them go to the answering machine most of the times. ;-)
I love this Babka, Lizzy! It looks scrumptious!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:33:59 pm

Thank you Manu, it surely is!

Amanda link
22/6/2014 02:45:09 pm

We donate generously to charities of our choice - never to those who cold call. And I tell them so.
Mind you, if they came around and baked me your babka I might be inclined to be a little more open-minded about that.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:34:15 pm

Ha Amanda, so true!

Hotly Spiced link
22/6/2014 04:42:16 pm

I don't get phone calls on the home phone but I have taken my number off the list so perhaps that's why. I do walk down the shopping strip every day though and every day there's yet another charity collecting money. It does get tiresome because it seriously is a daily event. When we were running our own business we would get calls every single day asking for money. It gets very hard to be polite to all of them xx

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:34:32 pm

It's a tough old world out there!

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
22/6/2014 07:27:38 pm

It looks great Lizzy! So glad that mine inspired the use of hazelnuts. I usually use whatever I have to hand. Thankfully there aren't too many people knocking at our door trying to convert us!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:34:51 pm

So glad to hear it Lorraine... and thanks for the kind words!

Jamie link
23/6/2014 12:13:34 am

This is fabulous looking babka and I think that no matter the woe whether a healing foot or nasty telemarketeers this could cure all evils. I've never made a babka before and I think this is the recipe I've been waiting for.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:35:08 pm

Oh Jamie, I think you would LOVE this one!

Mary Frances link
23/6/2014 10:19:09 am

Ugh I HATE getting cold called. It gets really bad around election season. I sometimes get 3-4 calls a day! That really tests my patience.

Gorgeous babka!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:35:24 pm

Thank you Mary Frances, it is delicious too!

Liz link
23/6/2014 02:31:30 pm

Your hazelnut babka looks divine! A work of art. I usually tell solicitors that I don't donate via phone calls...and hang up quickly before they have a chance to continue their spiel!

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:35:37 pm

Thanks Liz, very kind of you!

Fiona @TIFFIN bite sized food adventures link
24/6/2014 12:56:34 pm

I often look longingly at the picture of the kranz cake in Jerusalem, It's one of my favourite pictures. Of course you need a bit of time and that's not something I have a lot of at present so I will have to be content with living my life vicariously through you. Great post Liz.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:35:55 pm

Thanks Fiona... when you do get time, make the babka!

Anna link
25/6/2014 02:48:35 am

Oh dear, what a bother... Haven't had a cold call in yolks, but when I do, depending on how they kick off the 'conversation' will determine my response. Generally I will be polite and say - Not today thanks... Take care and Ill hang up. I did one time have a rather persistent chap that kept calling back, he even remained on hold for 15 minutes, he just didn't get the point, my house mate used one of those air horns (oops... kinda harsh in hindsight) down the phone, he got the point then. :) Liking the look of your Babka, again, if you need some taste testers, Im your girl. :)

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:36:18 pm

Thanks Anna, I will remember that next time I bake it! : )

Choclette link
25/6/2014 05:31:39 am

Ooh Lizzy, your father sounds wonderful. I can't stand nuisance calls and have to say I am not as kind as your father. I'm getting agitated at just the thought. Luckily one look at that gorgeous babka calms me right down again. I have Plenty and really must get Jerusalem I think.

Lizzy
25/6/2014 05:36:43 pm

Hi there Choclette... you will love Jerusalem, it is a beautiful book!

Kiran @ KiranTarun.com link
1/7/2014 09:34:39 am

I would never live without babka, especially when its this good. Love chocolate and hazelnuts :)

Zsuzsa link
9/7/2014 06:41:28 pm

That's a fine babka Lizzy! I am to the point I won't even listen to soliciting calls. If I don't know the caller I pick up the phone and hit the off button.

Andrea
9/10/2014 10:22:17 am

Liz, again, I love the connection with family and food! Your babka looks awesome, and I think I will give it a go today (beats ironing on a day off hehe!). Seriously, it looks so comforting..and yes, I am not enamoured of the phone calls, but have caller ID and don't usually pick up the phone as like a lot of the above comments, I donate in other means and ways. Hope you are feeling a lot better and your foot heals quickly!! xx


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    Photo of Liz Posmyk, Food Writer, Cook and Traveller

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