Orange in New South Wales greeted us with garlands of autumn colour, almost as if celebrating our arrival. A thriving regional centre just a few hours drive from Sydney and Canberra, Orange is the kind of place where gentlemen smile and tip their hats, children play outside on the front lawn, and folks take the time to stop for a friendly chat. If you will, it's a city in the country. A destination where you can enjoy the benefits of city life minus the pressure and rat race, or soak up a quiet rural life without feeling isolated. Are you seeking a tree change? Spend a week or more exploring Orange and its surrounding towns and villages, taste the district's food and wine, meet the locals, and you'll quickly find yourself falling for this charming place.
Surveyor-General, Thomas Mitchell, named the region (which was previously known as 'Blackman's Swamp') in honour of the Prince of Orange, who was later crowned King of Holland. The traditional landowners were the Wiradjuri or Wirraayjuurray people, said to be 'the people of the mountains, three rivers and the plains'. Europeans settled in the area in the 1820s. Ophir, 26 kilometres outside Orange, was the site of Australia's first payable gold discovery and research tells me that in the 1850s inland NSW became the most densely part of the state. The Cadia Gold Mine, 25 kilometres south west of Orange is today one of the largest open pit gold mines in Australia!
Postcards and morsels...
Parks, gardens, nature reserves and rural vistas are plentiful in Orange and its wide streets are lined with tall trees; both exotics and natives which, as you will see from my postcards, become the showpiece of the region during autumn months. We noticed numerous bees flitting from tree to tree. Hardly surprising as there is so much foliage to choose from.
Heritage architecture...
Unlike other cities where many 19th century and earlier buildings are sadly torn down to make way for shiny new shopping centres, Orange has many beautifully maintained and restored buildings. If you follow the Heritage Trail, you'll discover neo-classical sandstone buildings, Victorian terrace houses and gothic churches with tall steeples, and stuccoed Italianate structures. Put on your walking boots, take your camera and explore. There is much to see.
Mountains and lakes...
A striking feature of the landscape is Mount Canobolas which, at 1,395 metres, is the highest peak in a straight line between the Blue Mountains in New South Wales and Perth in Western Australia. The mountain is an extinct volcano that experienced a series of eruptions around 11 million years ago. A tranquil lake at the foot of the mountain was the original water supply for the city. The area is popular for picnics, swimming, sailing, fishing, canoeing, bush walking and cycling. There air here is crisp and clean, and with the cool nip and copse of tall trees reminded me of a lake region I once visited in Sweden.
Borrodell Vineyard...
First stop on our Orange itinerary was lunch at Sister's Rock Restaurant at Borrodell Vineyard, followed by a heritage apple walk in the orchards on site with owner, Borry Gartrell. The cellar door, vineyard, restaurant and orchard sit high on a hill overlooking the Towac Valley on the side of Mount Conobolas. It's raining and there's a delicious wood fire burning in the restaurant. After a splendid lunch cooked by Scottish chef Alan Meaney, and once the rain has settled, Borrie takes us for a walk through the orchard, plucking apples galore and handing them to us as we go along. 'I've been growing things since I was just five years old,' Borry tells us. 'I was born into a family that grows things and I find that growing things fills me with joy.'
At Borrodell, Borry grows 170 varieties of heirloom (and obscure) apples; including eating, cooking and cider apples. Among them are Bramleys, Gravensteins, Codlin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Winesap, and Dr Hogg. There's also 4,000 cherry trees (1,000 of which are weeping cherries); together with quinces, plums, pears, persimmons and truffles! As a grape grower, Borry produces award-winning wines. In James Halliday’s 2010 Wine Companion, Halliday awarded the vineyard with 4.5 stars and rated the Borrodell Gewürztraminer ’08 as one of 'Australia’s top wines', giving it 96 points. Borry's wife, Gaye Stewart-Nairne, joins us in the cellar door and, over a glass of their Cherry Elixir of Life, tells us a delightful tale about how she and Borry met. You meet some wonderful people in life. People that you would happily be in the company of again and again. Borry and Gaye fit into that very special category. Orange Region Farmers Market...
On the second Saturday of each month a group of farmers, growers and producers gathers to sell their high quality goods to the public. Run by the Rotary Club of Orange, the Orange Region Farmers Market aims to:
Take your market basket, plenty of cash, and a hearty appetite, for you'll easily spend hours shopping, grazing and chatting to the people behind the food. Here are some postcards from the market:
A diverse range of produce, including apples, walnuts and cheese...
As well as honey and preserves, more apples, vegetables and flowers...
Forage 2014...
Orange F.O.O.D Week is one of Australia's longest running regional food events and FORAGE is one of the highlights. 'What will you be picking?,' asked one of my readers, thinking we would be hunting for (and harvesting) things like mushrooms and chestnuts. Not so. Forage takes punters over hill and dale on a 3.6 kilometre walk through a series of vineyards and a cattle property, sampling the food and wine of the district along the way. Among the many goodies enjoyed there was Mandagery Creek Venison prosciutto and pear with sauvignon blanc and cuvée...
And then country terrine served with cherry compote, chardonnay and shiraz viognier...
Refreshing and quite exquisite hand-pressed shiraz sorbet with moscato...
And braised Trunkey Creek pork neck with potato salad and aioli served with chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon; as well as a sweet hazelnut financier with poached figs prepared by Kate Bracks (MasterChef series 3) served with shiraz. Yum!
Fashionable footware for Forage...
The itinerary recommended that we wear 'sturdy sensible footwear suitable for walking on varying terrain'. Peter and I were both glad that we wore our Columbia walking boots and felt slightly sorry for a few ladies in high heels (!) and men in thongs (!!). Among the fashionable footwear, we spotted these eye catching gum boots, great for trudging around across countryside that has seen plenty of recent rain!
Bunking down...
After a really big day out, it's great to 'come home' to a clean and comfortable hotel room, especially when there's a spa bath included in the suite! Our hosts provided accommodation at the Central Caleula Motor Lodge, which is well located just a short walk from the heart of the CBD. The suite was quiet and well appointed. There is a guest laundry, an outdoor pool, and buffet breakfast is available seven days a week.
If you plan to visit, there are plenty of options for accommodation in and around Orange, ranging from caravan parks to motels, B&Bs and luxury apartments. See links in The List below for details. Wait, there's more...
Stay tuned to Good Things for an upcoming post in which I share with you more about our visit to the fabulous Borrodell Vineyard and heritage apple orchard. I'll also share with you the recipe for the BEST apple pie we've ever tasted! Don't miss it!
Incidentally, the photograph at the top of this post is of a statue of dancers, which was presented to the citizens of Orange as a gift from the citizens of Ushiku in Japan (Orange and Ushiki are sister cities). The statue is outside the Orange Civic Theatre. The List...
Taste Orange - supporting and promoting events throughout the Orange region
F.O.O.D Week - Food of Orange District events, including F.O.O.D Week Wineries in the Orange district Visitors Guide History and Heritage Heritage Trail Events Outdoor activities Things to see and do Borrodell Vineyard and Sisters Rock Restaurant Orange Region Farmers Market Highway West Accommodation in the Orange district Luxury Accommodation at Borrodell Vineyard
Note: Orange City Council kindly hosted us for two nights at the Central Caleula Motor Lodge and generously sponsored our tickets to Forage. Good Things has not been otherwise compensated for this post.
Tell me dear readers, have you ever considered a tree change? What's your favourite thing about regional cities such as Orange? And have you been on Forage or other F.O.O.D Week activities?
35 Comments
Andrea
4/5/2014 09:54:02 pm
'Squeals' with excitement!!!! I love Orange, and shop and visit regularly along with visits for work purposes..so excited you have visited a part of my world and life that I love!!! I know I am a far north Queenslander, but Orange and the central west have stolen my heart!! Xx
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:35:58 am
Hi Andrea, it was such a delightful place... truly, if we were to consider a tree change Orange would be at THE TOP of the list! Loved it!
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5/5/2014 01:38:52 am
What a lovely garden with those healthy produce. I wanna stay there! Thanks for your story :).
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:36:24 am
Julie, you simply must visit Orange and the region... the food, the wine, the people, the place! Just wonderful!!!
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:36:45 am
Orange is a delicious place for sure, Zsuzsa.
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:37:03 am
Thanks so much, I do hope you make the pilgrimage.
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:37:15 am
Lisa, absolutely!!!
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5/5/2014 01:56:07 pm
even though i grew up near the blue mountains, i never made it over to orange. but from your pics, it's lovely to see a city that has respected and maintained its heritage - and yet is not held back by that and has such vibrant events such as the farmers market and FOOD/forage. what a wonderful rural landscape. and spunky gumboots!
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:37:39 am
Elizabeth, if you ever come over to the mainland, please put Orange on your list as a place to visit.
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Eha
5/5/2014 03:31:47 pm
Liz - what a wonderful array of photos giving a very clear idea of this old NSW country town. Am glad you got there before the recent wintery snaps - oh boy, that place must be amongst the coldest in the State. Doing medicine at the Sydney Uni way back, I did my country residency there at the Base Hospital and literally froze the proverbial you-know-what off :) ! Lovely surrounds . . .
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:38:55 am
True Eha, it does seem cooler there. I know you will laugh your head off when I tell you that we packed our swimmers for that weekend... the hotel had a pool and there's the lake too. But when I asked at reception about the pool, the lady told me the water would be 'icy'. Yes, that was deterrent enough! Otherwise a beautiful place!
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5/5/2014 04:26:51 pm
Orange is a fantastic country town. I have a friend who retired at a very young age and moved his family there and has really loved it. Did you hear it was snowing there last week! I'd love some of those gumboots - great for wearing to the rugby xx
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:39:30 am
Hi Charlie, yes, did you see those beautiful photographs of Orange with snow! Wow! The gumboots were the thing to be wearing! Laura Ashley!
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5/5/2014 05:43:27 pm
Beautiful country! So much harmony between people, hills, trees...I'm drawn to places like this.
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:39:52 am
Ela, so am I... such a beautiful part of the world... so glad I got the chance to show it to you.
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5/5/2014 06:57:21 pm
Gorgeous pictures Lizzy. I looks like a lovely place to visit. Wineries and good food how can you go wrong :-)
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:40:05 am
Kyrstie, you must visit sometime!
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We've been considering a tree change for years, hubby and I. It's our dream to take the kids out of the big smoke and into the country, we'd love to go regional. I can see myself on the local CWA, I really can! I have close family in Orange, and we love visiting, it's such a beautiful city, and your photos do it justice, Liz.
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Natasha
6/5/2014 01:45:48 pm
Fran, Orange is also an Evocity, if you need convincing to make the move, a grant might help. Take a look at http://www.evocities.com.au/
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:40:34 am
Fran, seriously, listen to Natasha, below... and do it...
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Natasha
6/5/2014 02:05:32 pm
Thanks for this wonderful write-up of Orange! My husband and I moved here 6 months ago and have not looked back. I shared it on Facebook to show our friends from Sydney who used to say "why would you move there?". We are not an older couple either, and after having travelled a lot decided this was a wonderful place to settle. Our lifestyle has changed exponentially for the better - and not just the short commute (5 minutes). We now understand the extreme importance of fresh produce (not woollies 'fresh'), buying local, and supporting Aussie farmers. People are friendly here and a chat is expected. We finally feel part of a community but don't miss anything from the big city except the beaches (which we can still visit). There IS amazing food everywhere (including an exceptional Asian-fusion restaurant, Sweet Sour Salt, of which the only real comparison would be The Red Lantern on Riley in Sydney - you must try it next time you come), a coffee-culture to rival Sydney (Byng St Café, Factory Espresso to name only two), and the best old-school style grocer and café - Agrestic Grocer! And yes, there is tonnes of wine (at least 30 vineyards, and at Wine Week last October it was said Orange has the best Chardonnay outside Burgandy in France)! We now even have a professional wine tour company (Orange Wine Tours) which we will be using when our friends visit this month from the Big Smoke! If all that doesn't excite you, I don't know what will ;)
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:41:25 am
Natasha, thank you kindly for this wonderful introduction to Orange... wish I had had the opportunity to meet you when we were there... next time! We will back for sure! Such a beautiful place!
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6/5/2014 11:52:41 pm
Oh how I do love Orange, so many fond memories, its such a gorgeous town. :) Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
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Lizzy
8/5/2014 11:41:37 am
Thanks Anna, it is indeed!!!
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8/5/2014 01:26:54 am
You know what I loved most about this post? ALL those smiling faces of people who create and sell fantastic food.
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Lizzy
20/5/2014 12:41:18 pm
Me too, Maureen, I could have spent hours at the market : )
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Lizzy
20/5/2014 12:41:01 pm
Thanks Fairlie... it is a beautiful place indeed!
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You've made me hungry! I learned a lot about Orange from you post, even though I grew up not far away. We used to go and buy cases of apples and stone fruit there each year when I was a child. One of my brothers lives there now, I will have to go visit him again soon and drag him and his wife along to the farmers markets.
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Lizzy
20/5/2014 12:40:43 pm
Hello Maamej, oh yes do... the farmer's market is wonderful!
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14/5/2014 03:53:19 pm
i love the fruits, the whole farm, and the people working on it...
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Lizzy
20/5/2014 12:40:18 pm
Me too Renalyn : )
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Welcome...Üdvözölöm
Cooking and writing have been a lifelong passion. Join me as I share with you my favourite recipes; postcards and morsels from my travels; conversations with cookery writers and chefs; and news on food, cookbooks and cooking. - Liz Posmyk
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NB: I use Australian standard measuring cups and spoons in my recipes.
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