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Postcards and Morsels - Truffles at Le Très Bon

21/7/2013

 
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Chef Christophe Gregoire was born and raised in Les Vosges – one of the most pristine rural regions in France.  He says Australian truffles have a superb quality and beautiful aroma...  largely due to cold winters, frosts and dry soil in growing regions

There's snow on the Brindabellas and it's sleeting in Bungendore when Peter and I arrive at Le Très Bon French restaurant and cooking school.  Yet as soon as we enter the rustic cottage, the delicious warmth of a wood fire and aroma of good things cooking in the kitchen wrap themselves snugly around us.

We're visiting during the Canberra & Capital Region Truffle Festival as guests of French master chef, Christophe Gregoire, and his Italian-born wife, Josephine, a charming and delightfully quirky couple with an obvious love of food and cooking.  Christophe greets us and we learn that he and Josephine established Christophe's Restaurant in Manuka in 1999...   of course (!), that should have clicked with me, but then my regular readers will know that Peter and I dine out so infrequently, and since leaving the cooking school I don't have as many connections in the restaurant industry.  But, we're here for a cooking class and Christophe explains with a smile that his 'English is just enough to enable [him] to teach'.

Christophe and Josephine have built up a great following at Le Très Bon, this is evident as the class attendees arrive.  Judging by the way they happily don their aprons and take their places at the cooking stations, many in the group of 20 are regulars and well know their way around.  To the sound of a bell, our hosts announce 'Bonjour and welcome to Le Très Bon'.  We're going to prepare a Chestnut Truffle Flan with Truffled Ice Cream after Chef's demonstration, but first a little bit of culinary history on truffles.

Chestnut & Truffle Flan with Truffled Ice Cream...

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Bonjour and welcome to Le Très Bon

French master chef, Christophe Gregoire, and his Italian-born wife, Josephine, a charming and delightfully quirky couple with an obvious love of food and cooking, have been in Australia since 1999 and established Christophe's Restaurant in Manuka.
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Josephine explains the history of truffles and reads from The Physiology of Taste...

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'The truffle is relatively new to Australia, but is actually an ancient food,' Josephine explains.  'The Roman naturalist and writer, Pliny, wrote about it and there is plenty of interesting food history and stories about truffles.  For example, in the Middle Ages, truffles were considered to be aphrodisiacs and magical.  The Church banned them, as it was said that they were borne out of the spit of witches!  Later, during the Renaissance, people came to terms with the fact that truffles were good'.

Josephine then read a pertinent passage from Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin's The Physiology of Taste, written in 1825: 'Whoever says "truffles" utters a great word which arouses erotic and gastronomic memories...   The noble tuber is not only considered delicious to taste, but is also believed to foster powers the exercise of which is extremely pleasurable'.  

'Savarin predicted the future of truffles,'  Josephine added.  'And they have gone global in modern time thanks to science.'                                                                       

Christophe explains what makes a 'good truffle', including terroir...

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'What Josephine and I love about truffles is that they are seasonal produce,' Christophe explains.  'A good truffle has a very good aroma, like this one,' he says opening the lid of a tall jar and unveiling a beautiful black truffle from beneath a fresh wrapping of paper towelling.  Immediately, that wonderful earthy scent fills the room.  'In Europe, we never wash the truffle for the market...  we leave the dirt on,' says Christophe.  'Truffle with dirt on it will keep for three weeks because the relationship between the soil and the truffle is still there.  To choose a good truffle, look for that aroma, but also look for truffle which is really firm and very black.  Use your truffle to infuse a basket of rice or eggs and always in the fridge...  truffle needs a cold temperature of between minus one degrees C to 2 degrees C.'  

Next, Christophe explains his love of local produce: eggs, truffle, chestnuts...  and the cooking demonstration begins.

Christophe demonstrates the best way to peel chestnuts and julienne truffle...

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And explains the recipes in a fun and informative manner...

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The recipes...

Christophe and Josephine have very kindly shared their recipes for Chestnut & Truffle Flan and Truffled Ice Cream with readers of Bizzy Lizzy's Good Things.

CHESTNUT & TRUFFLE FLAN
4 egg yolks
125g sugar
100mls liquid (pouring) cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla paste
25g pure cocoa (i.e. Valrhona)
40mls water
30g fresh black truffle

Chestnut paste:
220g peeled chestnuts
100g sugar
25mls water
1/2 teaspoon vanilla paste

The day before making your chestnut and truffle flan, make a julienne of truffle (set aside one slice for decoration purposes) and infuse with the liquid (pouring) cream; wrap with plastic film and store in the fridge.

To make the chestnut paste, in a saucepan combine the chestnuts and enough water to cover them, bring to the boil and simmer for 40 minutes.  Drain the chestnuts and make a mash using a vegetable mill or a fork.  Then make a syrup by combining the sugar and water.  Bring to the boil (105 degrees C).  Add the chestnut mash to the syrup.  Stir for 5 minutes until the paste reaches a dry consistency.

To make the chestnut and truffle flan, make a paste by combining the pure cocoa and the water.  Cream the egg yolks with the sugar.  Combine the cocoa paste, creamed egg yolks and sugar, chestnut paste and truffled cream.  Pour the mixture into serving ramekins.  Bake in a preheated oven at 100 degrees C for 50 minutes.  Plate as shown in the images below.  Serves 6.

TRUFFLED ICE CREAM
700mls milk
300mls cream
15 egg yolks
280g sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla paste
20g fresh black truffle

To make the crème anglaise, combine the milk, cream and vanilla paste in a saucepan and bring to the boil.  Cream the yolks and the sugar.  Carefully add the milk, cream and vanilla paste mixture to the creamed yolks.  Cook the mixture over a medium heat until it coats the back of a wooden spoon.  Julienne the truffle and add to the mixture.  Cool the mixture down quickly over an ice bath or cold bain marie.   Stir continuously with a wooden spoon.  When the crème anglaise is completely cold, pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and churn for 35-40 minutes.  Makes one litre of ice cream.

After the hands on cooking class, piping hot Soupe à l’oignon gratinée is served...

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A long table lunch is followed by the exquisite pièce de résistance...

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Bon appetit... 

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Christophe is a great teacher...   Peter is now planning to make flan for me at home!

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Le Très Bon at 40 Malbon Street, Bungendore is open from Wednesday through to Saturday for lunch and dinner, and on Sundays for lunch.  Classic French Cuisine cooking classes are held on selected Saturdays commencing at 10.30am.  Bookings are essential.  To book a table, find out about classes, or for information about the ten-day gourmet food and wine tours to France, visit the Le Très Bon web site or telephone 61 2 6238 0662.

Note: Peter and I attended the truffle cooking class as guests of Christophe and Josephine at Le Très Bon and the 2013 Canberra and Capital Region Truffle Festival.  Many kind thanks once again!  We will definitely visit you again. 

Recipes copyright Christophe and Josephine Gregoire, 2013.  Images copyright Liz Posmyk and Peter Buckley 2013.
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Tell me, do you enjoy cooking with truffles?  Do you prefer using them in savoury dishes or sweets?
Jas@AbsolutelyJas link
21/7/2013 09:34:05 pm

I'm yet to visit Le Tres Bon, which is a bit shameful after 11 years in Canberra given that it is such an institution! Winter and French food go hand-in-hand though (especially if there's a wood fire involved) so I may just have to remedy my tardiness. That flan sounds amazing!

Lizzy
21/7/2013 11:50:49 pm

I'm with you, Jas... same! I can highly recommend a visit... or a class! Thank you for stopping by... and the dessert was exquisite!

Christine @ Cooking Crusade link
21/7/2013 11:56:44 pm

Wow! So much truffly goodness :) I never would have thought to pair truffles with ice cream!

Lizzy
22/7/2013 12:02:41 am

Thanks, Christine! It was exquisite, and Peter has decided he likes truffle better in desserts! Thanks for stopping by.

Deb
22/7/2013 01:20:09 am

Exquisite! My reason for a return visit to Canberra. DC

Lizzy
22/7/2013 11:33:40 am

Excellent, Deb!

Barbara | Creative Culinary link
22/7/2013 07:46:15 am

I can not answer your question; sadly I've NEVER had any to cook with. It seems you are getting my share Lizzy!

Loving your explorations; thanks for taking me along.

Lizzy
22/7/2013 11:34:14 am

Hi Barbara... my pleasure... are truffles available at all in your part of world?

kellie@foodtoglow link
22/7/2013 08:52:50 am

You are making me VERY jealous. And that ice cream is just making it worse! *sigh*

Lizzy
22/7/2013 11:34:39 am

Aw, Kellie, I wish I could send some to you through the www. xo

john@kitchenriffs link
22/7/2013 09:06:43 am

I have to go back and reread Brillat-Savarin - it's been ages. You're killing me with your truffle posts! Wrong season for us in the US, and I'm so craving them! This is a wonderful post - great recipe, exceptionally informative, plus you have some expert technique thrown in for good measure. Really fun read - thanks.

Lizzy
22/7/2013 11:35:32 am

John, thank you... Josephine's reading made me pull Savarin back down from the shelves too... and Homer too! Thanks for stopping by.

e / dig in hobart link
22/7/2013 11:48:54 am

i love the myths that surrounds truffles - everythign from aphrodisiacs to witch's spit! that spekcled ice cream is equally intriguing. thankyou for sharing an amazing experience with us.

Lizzy
22/7/2013 11:50:01 am

My pleasure! : D

Lisa the Gourmet Wog link
22/7/2013 12:13:35 pm

What a spectacular collection of photos! Thanks for sharing Lizzy

Lizzy
22/7/2013 12:16:13 pm

Wow, thanks so much for your kind words!

InTolerant Chef link
22/7/2013 01:52:56 pm

Oh you lucky things Lizzy! What a treat indeed! I love truffles so much and these dishes look delightful :)

Lizzy
22/7/2013 06:58:27 pm

Absolutely... Peter and I had the BEST fun~

Valerie Lugonja is....A Canadian Foodie link
22/7/2013 03:50:08 pm

I especially appreciate the recipes. They are doable and not often do you get some like this... but - how much is the truffle there and how did they get it to grow there? It is not easy to do.
:)
V

Lizzy
22/7/2013 04:49:42 pm

Thanks Valerie! The recipes are achievable... the truffle... well you would pay perhaps about $125 for a 50g truffle... maybe more, depending on the quality. There are answers to FAQs here http://trufflefestival.com.au/frequently-asked-questions/ Our cold climate in the Canberra and regional district, and places like Tasmania, makes conditions good for growing. ; )

Shirley ~ Rhubarb Whine link
22/7/2013 07:27:21 pm

What a lovely photo, Lizzy. Stunning.

Lizzy
22/7/2013 07:33:16 pm

Thank you Shirley : D Which one?

Shirley
22/7/2013 08:03:42 pm

The top one.

Shirley via Twitter
22/7/2013 08:05:33 pm

Your opening photo (the first one).

Lizzy
22/7/2013 08:08:14 pm

Shirley, thanks again. I really like that one too!

Rosa link
22/7/2013 09:06:36 pm

Wow, that dessert is really interest and extremely original! It must taste amazing...

Cheers,

Rosa

Lizzy
22/7/2013 09:13:36 pm

Thanks so much, Rosa... I swear it is EXQUISITE!!

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
22/7/2013 10:50:05 pm

What a wonderfully educational post Lizzy! I don't think you could ever stop learning about truffles :)

Lizzy
23/7/2013 09:22:28 am

Thanks so much, Lorraine... such a delightful thing to learn about, no?

Kyrstie @ A Fresh Legacy link
23/7/2013 01:17:10 am

Lovely post Lizzy, it sounds like it was a great day. I enjoyed reading the tips on truffles and the recipe sounds amazing...if only I could drink/eat milk and cream, I can only imagine it was gloriously fabulous.

Lizzy
23/7/2013 09:23:27 am

Kyrstie, thanks so much! Oh, I wonder if you could make something similar with a non dairy form of milk? Knowing your cooking skills, I'm sure you could come up with something, xo

Karen (Back Road Journal) link
23/7/2013 02:38:24 am

You got wonderful photos of the cooking class. It felt like I was there with you. The tasting experience must have been terrific.

Lizzy
23/7/2013 09:23:57 am

Thanks so much Karen for the very kind words. It was a great day all round! Thank you for stopping by.

Jennifer link
23/7/2013 11:10:55 am

Wow, truffle ice cream is a new one for me. I'd be really intrigued to try it.

Lizzy
23/7/2013 07:21:49 pm

It is EXQUISITE, Jennifer!

Judy@Savoring Today link
23/7/2013 12:40:03 pm

What a sublime experience this must have been, the recipe sounds wonderful and I always appreciate a history lesson. :)

Lizzy
23/7/2013 07:22:12 pm

Judy, sublime indeed, from beginning to end! Thanks for stopping by.

Krista Bjorn link
23/7/2013 04:16:14 pm

What a fantastic class! I love their faces - they look so jolly and nice. :-) These recipes look and sound divine. :-)

Lizzy
23/7/2013 07:22:39 pm

Thanks Krista, Christophe and Josephine are lovely people!

Jill Dyson link
23/7/2013 05:17:32 pm

What a great article Liz and the photos too! We know Christophe and Josephine from their previous restaurant

Lizzy
23/7/2013 07:22:56 pm

Thanks, Jill, very kind of you : )

ironchefshellie link
24/7/2013 12:53:29 am

ooooohh la la! it looks amazing!!

Lizzy
27/7/2013 05:58:32 pm

You made me smile, Shellie. Ooh, la la, it was! : )

Fran @ G'day Souffle' link
24/7/2013 03:32:40 pm

I remember baking chestnuts in the oven once- I heard a loud explosion and they had all exploded and left what looked like remains from WW III in the oven (even though I had followed directions and pierced them beforehand). That Truffle Ice Cream looks great, although truffles might be a bit expensive or me!

Lizzy
27/7/2013 05:59:29 pm

Lordy, Fran... that reminds me of how scared I used to be of those old fashioned pressure cookers! Thanks for stopping by.

GourmetGetaways link
24/7/2013 05:09:57 pm

Oh how I want to take a deep breath in and smell the gorgeous earthy truffle aroma!! You are such a tease. Great story though :)

Lizzy
27/7/2013 05:59:46 pm

Aw, thank you GG... : )

Laura (Tutti Dolci) link
25/7/2013 09:25:56 am

Such creative truffle recipes, I'm inspired!

Lizzy
27/7/2013 06:00:02 pm

And delicious, too! : )

El link
25/7/2013 01:51:06 pm

Beautiful. Looks like a wonderful experience. Nice to learn so much about truffles!

Lizzy
27/7/2013 06:00:32 pm

El, thank you. It was indeed and they are beautiful people too. Thanks for stopping by. : )

azita link
28/7/2013 02:59:43 am

What a visual feast! I vicariously enjoyed this sumptuous experience via reading your post. But boy oh boy, that first close up shot of the truffle ice cream almost did me in! It looks TOO good! ;)

I still have to taste truffles in real life but it's fun reading about its history. Fascinating really!

Lizzy
30/7/2013 10:51:28 pm

Thanks so much Azita... I wonder what you will think when you first taste a truffle?

Moya link
30/7/2013 11:05:17 am

What a delicious experience, truffle ice cream sounds very interesting.

Lizzy
30/7/2013 10:51:47 pm

Thanks Moya... I have to tell you, the truffle dessert was amazing!


Comments are closed.

    Welcome...

    Üdvözölöm
    Photo of Liz Posmyk, Food Writer, Cook and Traveller

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