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Smoky Roast Capsicum Harissa

3/5/2012

 

Smoky Roast Capsicum Harissa

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If you forget me
I want you to know
one thing. 

You know how this is: 
if I look 
at the crystal moon, at the red branch 
of the slow autumn at my window, 
if I touch 
near the fire 
the impalpable ash 
or the wrinkled body of the log, 
everything carries me to you, 
as if everything that exists, 
aromas, light, metals, 
were little boats 
that sail 
toward those isles of yours that wait for me. 

If You Forget Me
- Pablo Neruda


Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda (1904-1973), whose writing I love, clearly appreciated food, for, apart from the poem above which is one of his most famous works, his many verses included An Ode to the Artichoke, An Ode to Maize, An Ode to Salt, An Ode to a Lemon, Ode to the Tomatoes, An Ode to Wine, and (would you believe) An Ode to a Large Tuna in the Market! Such passion for good things!

Had he not succumbed to leukemia, I feel certain the Nobel-prize winning Neruda (whose real name, incidentally, was Neftalí Ricardo Reyes Basoalto) would have eventually penned An Ode to the Chilli and An Ode to Bell Peppers as well. 
My snippet this week is a memorable Harissa that combines the warm bite of chillies, the smoky flavour of roasted capsicums (bell peppers), smooth EVOO and freshly ground, freshly roasted coriander and cumin seeds. I have adapted a recipe from one by legendary cookery teacher and author, Diane Holuigue, in her Postcards from Kitchens Abroad.

Food history tells us that harissa originated in North Africa and the main ingredient is always dried chillies, which bring a lovely depth of flavour to the condiment. In The Cook's Companion, Stephanie Alexander revisits meals she enjoyed during a 1993 trip to Tunisia: 'This fiery paste was seemingly eaten at every meal! When we sat down to eat, flat earthenware dishes were place in front of us with a healthy blob of harissa ringed with the rich, buttery olive oil of the region, and a basked of flatbread'. Alexander says she discovered the pleasure of 'puddling the bread in enough harissa and then allowing it to soak up some of the delicious oil'. Yum!
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For the best results, use market-fresh capsicums, good quality EVOO and the finest quality coriander and cumin seeds, and dried chilli*. Grind the coriander and cumin seeds in a spice grinder, before you toast them, you will be amazed by the aroma and complex depth of flavours.

ROASTED CAPSICUM HARISSA
3 large red capsicums (bell peppers)
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seed
3 tablespoons dried red chilli flakes* 
a pinch of sea salt
1 cup extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
a little extra oil, to finish

Wash and dry the capsicums. Place them (whole) on a foil lined tray and roast them under a hot grill, turning, until the skins blacken all over. While the capsicums are roasting, grind the coriander and cumin seeds in a spice grinder, then gently toast the mixture (dry) in a frypan over low heat, taking care not to let it burn. Set aside.

Working quickly, peel and discard the blackened skins from the capsicums, as well as the seeds and core. Place the capsicum flesh into a food processor, together with the ground cumin and coriander, salt and chilli flakes. Start blending and gradually add the EVOO. Process until you have a nicely textured harissa paste. Spoon the harissa into a sterilised jar and pour in extra EVOO to stop the paste from drying out or oxidising. Seal. Each time you use some of the harissa, pour a little oil over the top. This quantity makes about 2 cups.

*To dry you own home grown chillies, thread them onto string and air dry them in a well ventilated room. You can also dry them in an oven; this takes a few hours at a low temperature. Or use a food dehydrator, if you have one.
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For best results, use market-fresh capsicums (bell peppers)
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Together with good quality EVOO, and the finest quality spices and dried chilli
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Coriander seeds
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Dried chilli flakes
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Cumin seeds

The process in pictures... grind, roast, toast, blend...

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Enjoy...

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Puddle fresh bread in enough harissa and then allow it to soak up some of the delicious oil, a la Stephanie Alexander

So, if you were to write an Ode to a food, as Pablo Neruda did, what would it be and what would you say? Tell me, please. And please feel free to write some verse to share with our readers, if you will.

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JJ @ 84thand3rd link
2/5/2012 11:51:38 pm

Some of my favourite ingredients all blended together - yum!

Lizzy
3/5/2012 12:07:17 am

Mine too, JJ!! Thanks for popping in xox

Barbara link
2/5/2012 11:52:43 pm

Oh I love Pablo Neruda. Remember that movie about him where he lived in Italy. I think it was called Il Postino.

Bryan and my boys would love harissa. Thanks for the recipe Lizzy.

Lizzy
3/5/2012 12:08:58 am

Oh, yes, Barbara, I do. I had forgotten about that! I love his poems. Enjoy the recipe. Diane Holuigue is a wonderful cook. I ground the seeds fresh, for a more intense flavour. Similarly, I roasted the capsicums whole, as I feel that the seeds impart a flavour all of their own! Thanks for popping in. Hope you are travelling well my friend xo

[email protected] link
3/5/2012 09:02:14 am

Yeah, I love Harissa and this version is great. Sweet and spicy and hot. I do not know this genleman but he surely appreciated the finer things in life!

Lizzy
3/5/2012 09:10:26 am

Hi Tania! I am taking some harissa to work today to enjoy with my lunch. Yum! I have some bread too ; ) Thanks for stopping by.

InTolerant Chef
3/5/2012 10:32:44 am

That first photos a cracker Lizzie! Lovely paste indeed, and the smokiness would be delicious.
I would write an ode to a Quince, they are so sublime

Golden orbs of light
Awaited autumn bounty
Roasted Ruby red

Lizzy
3/5/2012 01:59:28 pm

Why, thank you! That's a lovely comment! This is a wonderful recipe. I am about to enjoy some with my lunch.

Oh, and an AWESOME haiku! Love it.

Jennifer link
3/5/2012 03:24:44 pm

I absolutely adore harissa, and I especially love the sound of your roasted capsicum version. Delicious!

Lizzy
3/5/2012 07:56:03 pm

Thanks Jennifer. This one is soooooooooo delicious!

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella link
4/5/2012 02:04:30 am

I adore a really good, hot harissa! Lovely quote too Lizzy :D Have a lovely weekend!

Lizzy
4/5/2012 11:15:08 am

Hiya Lorraine... I love harissa too. This one has just enough bite, without being too 'hot'. Have a great weekend too and thanks for visiting xo

Amanda link
4/5/2012 10:30:50 am

These are simply lovely photo's Lizzy, but I'm actually mortally afraid of chilli. I just can't see the sense in eating something that causes me this much discomfort - I'll just admire from a distance. ;-)

Lizzy
4/5/2012 11:17:24 am

LOL, Amanda. Chilli is something that you gradually get used to. Peter and I are really enjoying it these days, especially now we have it growing in the kitchen garden. We don't use it to the extreme, like some people do. My brother, Alex, when he was alive he would easily eat those seriously hot green chillies you used to get in jars. I would watch him in awe! I'm happy with my moderately mild harissa. Thanks for visiting. Have a great weekend xo

Laura (Tutti Dolci) link
4/5/2012 02:23:59 pm

I've never tried harissa, but smoky roasted harissa sounds like something I'd love. Must try this!

Lizzy
4/5/2012 02:31:32 pm

Oh Laura, yes, please do try it and let me know what you think! I bought some artisan Turkish bread at the market this morning and will enjoy some for lunch! Yum!

Mrs_Mulberry link
4/5/2012 09:00:37 pm

Thank you Lizzy for sharing Neruda's work. What a soulful poet. You recipe and photographs echo his words beautifully. Very inspiring!!

Lizzy
4/5/2012 09:24:09 pm

I agree his work is lovely, Mrs M. Thank you very much for your kind words! Always a pleasure to welcome you.

Christina @ The Hungry Australian link
5/5/2012 10:09:57 am

Love chilli, love peppers, love the flavours. Can you send some over now, Lizzy? :)

Lizzy
5/5/2012 12:57:54 pm

Sure thing, Christina! Anything for you ; )

kellie@foodtoglow link
5/5/2012 06:31:27 pm

I am not good at versifying but I do know how to say thanks for a lovely recipe, images and words. I am always trying to add to my repertoire of sauces and condiments to enhance good, simply cooked ingredients. This looks like a keeper. Thanks for sharing this with us.

Lizzy
5/5/2012 11:48:11 pm

Kellie, your recipes and photos are so beautiful I am very chuffed to read your kind words. I hope you will try this harissa and love it. It's really yummy!

The Food Sage link
5/5/2012 11:23:32 pm

Smokin' post, Lizzy. Love harissa. Now just got to get my arse in gear and make some!

Lizzy
6/5/2012 07:58:01 am

Ah, a woman after my own heart! Thanks for the lovely comment! Enjoy!

Liz link
6/5/2012 03:10:02 am

I think he would have gotten around to an ode to chocolate as well. Your photos are marvelous...so bright and cheery. And I know your smoky harissa is wonderful, too! Hope you had an enjoyable weekend, my friend~

Lizzy
6/5/2012 07:59:08 am

Now that is a very good point, Liz! Chocolate! Yes. Thank you for your very kind words! Have a great week, my friend and thanks for popping in!

Anna @ The Littlest Anchovy link
7/5/2012 04:33:45 pm

Capsicums are one of my favourite ingredients. I love that you have found another way for me to eat them! I really want to read more Pablo Neruda now....

Lizzy
8/5/2012 08:24:12 am

Excellent, Anna, glad I found a recipe that you can enjoy. The work of Pablo Neruda is brilliant. You will be able to read more of him online.

celia
8/5/2012 08:40:39 am

Oooh, Lizzy, now that's quite a different version to the one I make. I love the use of roasted capsicums!

Lizzy
10/5/2012 09:08:36 pm

Thank you, Celia. I love roasted capsicums generally and must say this harissa is really delicious!

kellie@foodtoglow link
10/5/2012 08:54:45 am

Me again. I just wanted to tell you that I have nominated you for a Versatile Blogger award. Have a look at my latest post (tandoori cauliflower tart in an olive oil crust) to see what the deal is. I nominated you because I wanted you and my readers to know how much I admire you.

Lizzy
10/5/2012 09:48:29 pm

Kellie, that is very kind of you. Thank you so much! I will jump in to your site at the weekend and have a look at the awards. Love the cauliflower tart, BTW!


Comments are closed.

    Welcome...

    Üdvözölöm
    Photo of Liz Posmyk, Food Writer, Cook and Traveller

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Good Things is written and published by Liz Posmyk © 2011-2020.   All rights reserved.
Excerpts may be used provided that full and clear credit is given. Thank you.


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